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Old Apr 5, 2003 | 12:19 PM
  #1  
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someone shoot me....please

NEW problem. damn antifreeze spilled in the comparment where the lifters are when i lifted my intake manifold out.....im sure it spilled down the holes wheere oil goes.....and uh yeah.....about a pint....how do i get that out...what can i do to NOT kill the engine??? help !!!!! i disconnected ALL the hoses and this still happened, how could i have avoided this?!
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Old Apr 5, 2003 | 12:32 PM
  #2  
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From: W. Kentucky
Car: 83 Z-28
Engine: 406
Transmission: TH350
Axle/Gears: 3.70
I would pour some oil all over the top of the engine to wash the anitfreeze down to the oil pan and then drain all the oil out and put fresh oil in. You may want to change the oil after you put it back together in about 10 or 15 miles or after it has ran a little.
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Old Apr 5, 2003 | 01:50 PM
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From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Do what 94-6sp said abt chasing the anti-freeze with oil, then drain the oil.
As long as the eng hasn't been started (or cranked a lot) the bottom end should be OK.

There are holes on each side of the block that will allow the coolant to be drained. The knock sensor screws into the pass side hole. The drivers side has a screw-in plug most likely.
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Old Apr 5, 2003 | 01:55 PM
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ok so in the whole *taking everything off* ordeal i missed that lol....so im not completly screwed??? it *may* have gotton in the distributor hole as well...dont really know...and again about 2 cups of water spilt in it...
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Old Apr 5, 2003 | 04:09 PM
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Originally posted by SlowMaro
ok so in the whole *taking everything off* ordeal i missed that lol....so im not completly screwed??? it *may* have gotton in the distributor hole as well...dont really know...and again about 2 cups of water spilt in it...
The dist hole drains into the oil pan so no prob there, do what the other guys said and you're all set. Next time, drain the block first. My favorite way to control coolant when pulling an intake is to shove a Shop-Vac into the thermostat hole (after pulling the stat) to draw out residual coolant from the intake and heads, after draining the block of course.
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Old Apr 5, 2003 | 06:32 PM
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good idea for next time.....but first... i got the old cam out!!! i was woried abou tgetting the harmonic balancer n **** off...bu woohoo..it off and out...took some strainin, ....there isnt any way i could knocked the cam shaft bearing loose is there???????
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Old Apr 5, 2003 | 08:39 PM
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Not likely knocked loose, but if you bounced the cam around during removal you might have nicked the bearing surfaces. Get out the flashlight and check 'em out...no scratches allowed.
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Old Apr 5, 2003 | 09:32 PM
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From: Elizabeth, Colorado
Car: '94 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 4L60E
I did the same thing not to long ago.

I did exactly as stated above. I opened up the drain plug, and then slowly poured a couple of new quarts of oil down each area the anti-freeze went.

Ron
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Old Apr 5, 2003 | 09:44 PM
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From: Virginia
Another tip for flushing the engine, especially during a cam / head install where coolant / water / dirt / gasket material can make it's way into the engine oil........

Remove the drain plug and drain the oil. Then run a gallon or two of kerosen through the engine, keeping the drain plug out......also pour it through the dist hole, and the oil drainback holes in the heads and middle of the block.

"kerosene?" you ask? YUP.......read the ingredients on those expensive motor flushes......main ingredients are the base of kerosene.

Military has used this trick for years with no adverse side-effects.


Also......when removing or installing a cam, simply leave the cam gear bolted to the cam after removing the chain, and use it as a handle to slowly and EASILY remove / install the cam. Don't force it, and sometimes rotating it as you pull it / install it will help you along.

Do yourself a HUGE FAVOR.....go ahead and drop the oil pan off the engine, it'll come off enough to get the old gasket off... then install a 1-piece oil pan gasket ......it's hard to get a GOOD seal on the timing cover with the oil pan installed.


HTH
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 01:34 AM
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From: columbia sc
i doubt i scratched em, i didnt bump the bearings too hard, ...and i did use a long screw as a handle....heh ...the cam isnt too sharp anywhere..highly doubt anything was scratched
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 05:41 AM
  #11  
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
told ya so!!!! Guess I do know a little...

Last edited by Riley's35089rs+; Apr 6, 2003 at 05:43 AM.
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 05:45 AM
  #12  
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
Originally posted by SlowMaro
i doubt i scratched em, i didnt bump the bearings too hard, ...and i did use a long screw as a handle....heh ...the cam isnt too sharp anywhere..highly doubt anything was scratched
three long bolts in the end of the cam make a good handle..
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 05:46 AM
  #13  
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
ouch!!!
Attached Thumbnails someone shoot me....please-p3260019.jpg  
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 08:02 AM
  #14  
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what type of lubriation shuld i use to install the cam???????????
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 09:15 AM
  #15  
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From: heartland
Car: 89rs (previous 2.8)
Engine: 406
Transmission: 700r4 (for now)
this is what I will be using...part # CCA-159 at www.summitracing.com Lots of choices...you should be able to get a good product at most parts stores..
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 10:44 AM
  #16  
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ok while dumping a quart of oil on the lifters etc etc to ensure that no water was in there, i poured half a tea spoon of oil in the intake and exhaust port on the head....will this cause damage?? or just smoke for about a min????
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 11:33 AM
  #17  
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From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
Nope, it'll be fine, just a little smoke on startup but you'll have plenty of it when you fire it up the first time.
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 05:39 PM
  #18  
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ok everything is done and on...cept ONE minor deail...HOW DO I GET THE TIMING CHAIN COVER BACK ON!!!!!!theres this lil lip that supposed to go over he oil pan gasket....and why am i telling yall this, you already know.....how the hell do i get it on there?!
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 08:39 PM
  #19  
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From: Austin
Car: 82 Z-28
Engine: 383 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
The timing cover is supposed to go on before the oil pan.

Drop the oil pan down a little OR, grind off the lip on the timing cover that is supposed to go on the other side of the seal.

I'd drop the pan.
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 09:31 PM
  #20  
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ok trimmed about half an inch off both sides of the curled up lip....took both feet and both hands pressimg hard and it finally snapped in.....woohoo, now time to go to walmart and look for a 20 thread 7/16 bolt and put the harmonic balancer on, ...ALL downhill from there woohoooooooooooooooo
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Old Apr 6, 2003 | 09:33 PM
  #21  
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thank you everyone so far!!! cant be too hard from here ....we hope!:hail: :hail: :hail:
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 12:22 AM
  #22  
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From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
Good luck...
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 09:48 AM
  #23  
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ok NO ONE carrys a balancer install tool!!! everyone has the remover though.....wtf....CANT find a 7/16 thread bolt ANYWHERE.......so now what.......
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 11:30 AM
  #24  
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Car: 1982 Z28
Engine: LS1
Transmission: T56
Jump on summitracing.com and buy one, finish putting the rest of the engine together while you wait for it to arrive.

It's not worth rushing ahead and damaging the crank snout threads...plenty of other things you can finish up in the meantime.
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 12:03 PM
  #25  
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well EVERYTHING else was already put on the engine....cept for the balancer, pully, belts of course.....but i got the balancer on!!! i oiled it up pretty good, ....took a hammer and some wood
whacked away for a lil while til the crank bolt would fit in about an inch with the washer on it....and tightened it a lil, then whack it
tighten....whack it...tighten, ..then the last 1/4 inch just tightened the bolt the whole time...all is good --i hope-- hope the balancer is balanced.... woohoo!!!!!!!!!!!!!!! and i thought putting on headers was hard....HEH.....
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 12:42 PM
  #26  
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From: Long Island, NY
Car: '89 RS Convertible
Engine: 355
Transmission: 700R4
Originally posted by ctandc
Another tip for flushing the engine, especially during a cam / head install where coolant / water / dirt / gasket material can make it's way into the engine oil........

Remove the drain plug and drain the oil. Then run a gallon or two of kerosen through the engine, keeping the drain plug out......also pour it through the dist hole, and the oil drainback holes in the heads and middle of the block.

"kerosene?" you ask? YUP.......read the ingredients on those expensive motor flushes......main ingredients are the base of kerosene.

Military has used this trick for years with no adverse side-effects.

HTH
I know a guy...and this was years ago...who used to dump his oil, pour in a couple of quarts of kerosene, and actually run the engine for a minute or so like that...dump it, and put fresh oil in. Used to clean more crud out of there than you could believe. Now..this was a long time ago...and I sure as hel* aren't about to try it..but he swore it was the best way to clean the engine, and claimed he not only never had a problem, his engines lived longer because they were so clean inside!
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 12:44 PM
  #27  
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i dunn o man, ..im kinda shady about putting kerosene up in the engine block...lol thats just me though
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 02:17 PM
  #28  
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From: New Palestine, IN (Just East of Indy)
Car: '85 Z28
Engine: 305
Transmission: WC T5, 3.23 posi
You can also use auto tranny fluid to clean it out too. Some people swear by it, others don't risk it (like me)....
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Old Apr 7, 2003 | 05:33 PM
  #29  
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From: Las Vegas, NV
Car: 1985 Camaro, 2015 Audi A4
Engine: V8
Transmission: 700R4
harmonic balancer install tool? you mean a pvc pipe and a rubber mallet?
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