cooling fan problem
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Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 231
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From: Randleman,nc
Car: 87 BUICK GN
Engine: 3.8 TURBO
Transmission: 200R4
cooling fan problem
hey fellas
I have a problem with my 88 TBI maro. when i start the car cold the fan is not running. But after it gets up to operating temp(witch is the first line on the temp gauge) the fann comes on and stays on until the car cools down. What can cause the fan to stay running like that. I changedd the relay. could the CTS sensor gone hay wire or do they have a back up fan switch?.
thanks for any info
I have a problem with my 88 TBI maro. when i start the car cold the fan is not running. But after it gets up to operating temp(witch is the first line on the temp gauge) the fann comes on and stays on until the car cools down. What can cause the fan to stay running like that. I changedd the relay. could the CTS sensor gone hay wire or do they have a back up fan switch?.
thanks for any info
Senior Member
Joined: Mar 2003
Posts: 512
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From: Birmingham, Alabama
Car: 1989 IROC
Engine: 5.7 / 350 cuid
Transmission: 700R4
Unless I read this wrong, I'm not sure that I see the problem. The fans are supposed tom come on and stay on until the car cools to the proper temp.
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Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 1,195
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From: Flowery Branch, GA
Car: 1985 Iroc-Z
Engine: 1 BA 305 TPI
Transmission: Probuilt 700R4 - 2800 Stall Midwest
Axle/Gears: 3.42
I'm also confused. It sounds like they are working the way they are supposed to. I read this a couple of times, too. The fan probably shouldn't turn on when the dash gauge is at the FIRST indicator line. That's usually about 120°F. It's possible that the temperature gauge is not indicating correctly, and/or the CTS is failing. I'd start by diagnosing the dash gauge and sending unit, since they are notoriously unreliable. They give a general indication, but aren't calibrated like a laboratory instrument.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 2002
Posts: 231
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From: Randleman,nc
Car: 87 BUICK GN
Engine: 3.8 TURBO
Transmission: 200R4
RE cooling fan problem
hhey guys
thanks for the replies. But i have fixed the problem. I changed the CTS sensor made no change. Then i checked the temp gauge to see if it was reading correct the difftrence is aboutt 10 degrees from the water temp at the radiator cap opening and what the gauge was showing. ( not bad at all
) the fan would come on and stay on at like 180 degrees. the fan circuit is not supposed to kick on until like 216-220 from what my service manual. so then i traced out the wiring diagram AHAH found my problem on the passenger side head there is a secondary fan switch to kick the fan on incase if the computer was to fail to start the fan.
so i replaced it ( It's a pain in the **** just like # 8 plug to change) changed it and now it works like a dream fan kicks on @ 218 F and shuts down @ 202 F thats what i could get from the temp reading at the cap opening
so remember that one it took awhile to find it but now everybody will know that sensor is there also the part# is a FS1 (gp sorrenson) picked it up at work. Advance auto for like 6 bucks
thanks for the replies. But i have fixed the problem. I changed the CTS sensor made no change. Then i checked the temp gauge to see if it was reading correct the difftrence is aboutt 10 degrees from the water temp at the radiator cap opening and what the gauge was showing. ( not bad at all
) the fan would come on and stay on at like 180 degrees. the fan circuit is not supposed to kick on until like 216-220 from what my service manual. so then i traced out the wiring diagram AHAH found my problem on the passenger side head there is a secondary fan switch to kick the fan on incase if the computer was to fail to start the fan. so i replaced it ( It's a pain in the **** just like # 8 plug to change) changed it and now it works like a dream fan kicks on @ 218 F and shuts down @ 202 F thats what i could get from the temp reading at the cap opening

so remember that one it took awhile to find it but now everybody will know that sensor is there also the part# is a FS1 (gp sorrenson) picked it up at work. Advance auto for like 6 bucks
Supreme Member

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 0
From: Johnstown, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
Just a small note here. The temp should be checked where the CTS is located, not in the radiator cap. They will be pretty close, but you will get a small difference. If you're checking the gauge accuracy, you should check it on the head where the gauge is installed, since that's where it's getting it's reading.
I do see that things were close enough for you to fix it though.
I do see that things were close enough for you to fix it though.
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