This one has had me scratching my head for a bit. I was chasing some performance problems, and ended up replacing my EGR Valve, and the EGR solenoid. While I was in there, I cleaned all of my injectors, replaced a bunch of gaskets (found some vacuum leaks), cleaned the throttle body, reset TPS, replaced Cap, rotor, and Fuel filter. (I was getting EGR codes, the engine was very difficult to start, performance was non-existant, and the car would miss once, SEL would come on, and there would be NO power, engine would idle really bad, and the car could not pull itself away from a stop light. Let it cool for 15 minutes, and you could drive away again for a while. It would only do this after driving on the freeway for a while.)

Well, now the car runs MUCH better, still does not start right up, but generally on the second try. The SEL comes on Immediately on start up, and stays on, most of the time. (code 32, EGR problem) When the light is ON, the car runs great, goes when I step on the gas, plenty of power, I really like it. On the occasion when the light does not stay on after startup, the car hesitates on accell, bogs, and sometimes acts like it is starving for gas. (pump in once, and off ya go.) I find this somewhat counter-intuitive. I am reasonalby certain that the EGR code is due to a malfunction in the diagnostic switch on the EGR valve itself. (figgers, the only part I did not replace) What I don't understand, is why the car runs BETTER when the EGR code sets.

Base timing is at 6* BTDC, fuel pressure is good, and stable, the plugs are new.

The car is an 88 Formula 350 TPI. I have installed an MSD 6A smart box, Blaster 2 coil, TBAF, K&N air filter, AFPR (set at 48), and a high performance fuel pump from TPIS. I am not getting any other codes, all engine systems appear to be working correctly (other than EGR.....) and are up to date on maintenance.

I am open to any suggestions. I do have a snap-on scanner available (but not till next week, my friend is on vacation....)

Thank you people, This board is one of my favorite places on the 'net to hang out.

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BTT. Hey folks, I could really use some help here. Please??

Brian

 

Check the electrical line that goes to the solenoid...ohm it out to ground,I cahsed a similar problem on a 305 TPI car a few months ago (motor was installed in a '56 Chevy PU...) We replaced the valve, solenoid and temp probe too, but still had the SE light on, our light never went off though....but the wire for solenoid was chaffed and shorted to ground.

I also recall something in the dianostics about TPS setting, CTS input and maybe something else, my memory is fading...when I get home this afternoon, I look through my Helms and post the diag for ya.