Scrams84Z

It is purely my opinion, but I think that the best looking hood put on the 3rd Gen Z28 was the 1982-1984 hoods. The only problem is, I hate the "scabs" (the fake flaps where the intakes would be) and would love to make the scoops on the hood functional. I know the 82-83 LU5 cross fire injection models had a fiberglass hood with functioning scoops. How was that set up? I have the steel hood, and would probably like to stay with that because I don't want to have to deal with cracking. If I remove the scabs and cut the holes in the hood, does anyone have any ideas on how to set it up for ram air? Are there any aftermarket products to accomplish this, or would I have to fabricate the parts myself? Has anyone else done this? Pictures anyone?

Thanks for any help.

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'84 Z28 w/ T-tops, 420HP Stroked 383, Trick Flow aluminum heads, Tremec 5 speed, 3.73 posi rear, Edelbrock 750 cfm carb, Open element air cleaner, Edelbrock headers & 3" exhaust, Edelbrock Strut Tower Brace, there is much suspension work to come.

"Smoke 'em if you got 'em"

MRZ28HO

Your on your own on this one as far as aftermarket goes. Get as much knowledge as you can on the Muscle Car's Cowl Indunction hoods, then apply this design, but facing forward, to your hood. Simple. I am working on this setup as we speak. You will need to fab up a box to isolate the cold air from the engine heat and utilize an open element air cleaner within.

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George P. Lara
1994 Z28 LT1 T56
1984 Z28 High Output
Member: SCCA, SCFB, SC3GFB

Petes 84Z28

I have done exactly what you are interested in....originally on my 84Z28, which I carried over to the 83SC when I switched engines. I just have a couple of underhood pics, but nothing of the hood itself on a page here.. http://www.hioutput.com/pete/garage/83SC/83sc.html.
Basically, I took a jigsaw to the hood and cut out the area under the 'plates'. I used the stock LG4 air cleaner base and filter element with the lid from a Moroso chrome air cleaner, 11 1/2" I think. Then took some foam from an old chair pad and wrapped it around the base to seal up to the hood.
Simple and effective...

Pete

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Pete's Place
Now at HiOutput.com<P ALIGN="center"><IMG SRC="http://www.hioutput.com/pete/83SC.gif" TITLE="Pete's 83 SC">
My 83 SC...(originally V6) 196,500 mile LG4/5-speed from an 84 Z28, 3.42 one-tire-fryer, T-tops, PW, PH, gray interior from an 86 Firebird SE, seats from an 89 Formula, wheels from an 83 Z28, springs and rear bar from an 84 Z28, WS6 front bar, boxed LCA's, Hedman Hedders and y-pipe, Dynomax cat-back, .420" lift cam, Accel HEI Supercoil and foam air filter, custom air induction through 84 Z28 hood.....best ET on paper is 14.935@94.14 (corrected is 14.79@95.75)</P>

johnyIROC

I did the same set-up with my 83 Z28, I took off the metal plates, drilled holes, and cut out the blanks with a jig saw. I made chrome louvers out of chrome door trim and some screen for dad's stock car. Under the hood, I just used an Edlebrock open air element. It looks awesome, and seems to help out on the highway.

I thought I was the greatest after completing this mod, but then one day after a huge rain storm, I jumped in my car and tried to start it. I hear Buzzzzzz.. crack!. It threw the starter into the driveway. I figured that the timing chain had snapped or something, but with help from the guys here at thirdgen.org we found out that the cylendars were actually Hyrdra Locked. In simple terms the DAMN motor was full of water I pulled the plugs, pumped out the bad water, changed the oil and put the new starter on... good as new, but a big pain in the *** .....

I guess what I'm trying to say is you might think about a way to seal these things before you go cutting holes in your car.

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johnyIROC 1983 Z28
Silly rustang, 5.0 is way too slow
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-87 IROC front clip and ground effects
-Hand pollished Z28 wheels
-Hurst Pro Matic 2 shifter
-Functional hood ducts
-Limo tint all around
-350 stroker coming this winter