Alternator going bad?
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Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 283
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From: Rochester, NY, USA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
Alternator going bad?
Hello all, I have a real quick question for you guys. I have noticed like in the last two days or so, at night usually that when I have my headlights on and foglights and I am driving my voltage guage is only at the dash marked 8! (Even when I am accelerating) Usually I remember it being at least above the 12 dash mark.
Is this my alternator going bad? This wouldnt have anything to do with the battery correct? My other problem is if it is my alternator, I have it polished/chromed so is there some way that I could just get new internals or something to fix it and keep the outside casing? If so where would I be able to get these parts and would any garage be able to fix it?
P.S. - Car starts fine....
Is this my alternator going bad? This wouldnt have anything to do with the battery correct? My other problem is if it is my alternator, I have it polished/chromed so is there some way that I could just get new internals or something to fix it and keep the outside casing? If so where would I be able to get these parts and would any garage be able to fix it?
P.S. - Car starts fine....
Supreme Member
Joined: Apr 2002
Posts: 3,552
Likes: 5
From: New Jersey
Car: 86 Corvette, 89 IROC, 1999 TA
Engine: 350, 350, LS1
Transmission: 700r4, 700r4, T-56
Axle/Gears: 3.07, 373, 4.10
before ya go replacing/rebuilding anything make sure your connections are tight and clean
Supreme Member

Joined: Apr 2003
Posts: 1,751
Likes: 4
From: Bonner Springs, KS
Car: 1995 Corvette
Engine: LT1
Transmission: 6 spd Manual
Axle/Gears: Dana 44, 3:45:1
I would also measure voltage with a multimeter at the connections. I wouldn't rely on the dash gauge, other things could cause that gauge to act funny.
It's easy to repair an alternator. But before you dive in head-first, make sure you know what the problem really is. The alternator may be fine. You've been given good advice - check all the connectiopnos first and verify the alternator output under load with a separate voltmeter.
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Joined: Jul 2001
Posts: 5,225
Likes: 70
From: Buffalo, NY
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 427 SBC
Transmission: ProBuilt 700R4
Axle/Gears: Moser 12 Bolt / 3.73 TrueTrac
Like said above, check your connections before you start replacing things. I know from experience
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY, USA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
I will check the connections first then. If that isnt it then I will stop up at autozone to get it checked. Thanks guys I'll check back.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2001
Posts: 283
Likes: 0
From: Rochester, NY, USA
Car: 1986 IROC-Z
Engine: 355 TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.23 Posi
I got it tested and it was bad. Well I took it to a alternator rebuilding place, I am getting it rebuilt since it will only be like 40 or so dollars. So thats it, thanks guys! Keep up the good work!:lala:
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