popping from exhaust/rough idle
#1
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popping from exhaust/rough idle
Yes, I've posted this before, and I'm sorry I'm bothering you poor people more than I already have, but I have updates.
1. O2 sensor is fine; put in a new one and there was no change.
2. EGR valve is ok; ditto above.
I'm going to pick up some new plug wires today or tomorrow, but after I do this I'm totally stumped. I'm afraid I will have to resort to taking her to a shop.
I have another idea, though, so anyone with headers help me out here: is it possible that I need a heated o2 sensor? I have the heddman shorties and the o2 bung is a few inches from the the collector.
Thanks,
Brandon
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White '92 Firebird w/ 305 TBI. Open element w/ non drop base, increased fuel pressure, TBI spacer, Hedman Hedders & y-pipe, no cat, cat-back exhaust
1. O2 sensor is fine; put in a new one and there was no change.
2. EGR valve is ok; ditto above.
I'm going to pick up some new plug wires today or tomorrow, but after I do this I'm totally stumped. I'm afraid I will have to resort to taking her to a shop.
I have another idea, though, so anyone with headers help me out here: is it possible that I need a heated o2 sensor? I have the heddman shorties and the o2 bung is a few inches from the the collector.
Thanks,
Brandon
------------------
White '92 Firebird w/ 305 TBI. Open element w/ non drop base, increased fuel pressure, TBI spacer, Hedman Hedders & y-pipe, no cat, cat-back exhaust
#2
TAB,
Popping exhaust can be from late ignition timing, and overly rich mixture, leaky/hot exhaust valves, or excessivly late valve timing (slipped timing chain).
A heated O2 sensor never hurt anyone, but having yours mounted right at the collector with shorties shouldn't be making for a cold sensor. Are your headers coated?
------------------
Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
Popping exhaust can be from late ignition timing, and overly rich mixture, leaky/hot exhaust valves, or excessivly late valve timing (slipped timing chain).
A heated O2 sensor never hurt anyone, but having yours mounted right at the collector with shorties shouldn't be making for a cold sensor. Are your headers coated?
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"Make Me Bad"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
#3
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no, they are not coated. One reason I suggested the heated o2 sensor is because when the stumbling starts, sometimes the ecu will go into open loop momentarally. BTW, I just changed the wires, and they weren't the problem .
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Car: 91 Z28
Engine: 5.7
Transmission: T-5
my car does the same thing - but i was woundering how your power situation is - I had my engine replaced when i put my headers on and ever since my car has been making no torque at all and probibly less than 170 hp when i had it at 250 hp verified by a dyno before the engine and headers - and like you im stumped - I've replaced everything now except the injectors - so im convienced it either one of them or something wrong with one of my heads
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Well, my pessimistic dad thinks it might be a burnt valve, but I don't have any loss of power and the problem goes away after 1000 rpms. Maybe a compression test would help us?
Thanks,
Brandon
Thanks,
Brandon
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