I'm in the process of building my 383 right now and have run into almost every clearance problem to this point. This weekend I have to clearance the block to keep the rod bolts from hitting. Here's my question...with a cam with only like .500 lift or so should I have a problem with the rods hitting the camshaft?

 

just to be safe, I'd get a cam for a made for 383 clearances...it's not worth putting something in there that you're unsure about.

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82 Z28
355 carb'd, Edelbrock Performer RPM package (minus heads), Hooker Super Comps, Mufflex 4" offroad y-pipe, 700r4 with B&M shiftkit, '85 IROC 10 bolt rear with Richmond 4.10's & Auburn posi unit, Lakewood 50/50 drag shocks. Shooting for 3000lbs w/ driver.

The car's website

(383 buildup this winter)

AIM: Unitedhope
ICQ: 77979548

 

Paul,
Unless you're using an Eagle, Proline, or Manley rod (Childs and Albert may make one too) with the rounded shoulders, you'll need to clearance the rod bolts with a die grinder.
If you're building a 6" rod 383, and many guys do, well, you're going to keep suffering some. You might call Comp Cams to ask if their small base-circle cam require any other changes (such as non-standard length pushrods). Hopefully, you can use a standard base-circle cam, and clearancing the rod bolts will be your last headache.

Good luck.

BOR

 

How do I clear the rod bolts? Just grind them after they are fastened? That would kind of be destructive huh.

 

Paul
Although I haven't built a 383 sbc specifically, I can tell you when building up any non-stock engine, everything is suspect. Therefore, the engine is trial assembled many times to check for the clearances you mention & more. To check for bottom end clearances, I would assemble w/o rings on pistons & see where the problems are. Intereferece to rod bolts usually means to a "bolt" rather than rod bolt NUT, in which case the head of the bolt is precession ground down, so it is shorter, but still totally functional relative to wrench usage.
I've got to find out what my friend did when he built his 383. There seems to be a number of questions here which always pop up.
Regards, FJK

 

When I did my 383 with GM wide beam rods, I just had the machine shop put new bolts in the rods, shotpeen them and notch the caps for clearance. They do not have to take off much material at all to clear the block and wont weaken them. Some people grind on the block for clearance... you can go either way

You can use some radical cams in a 383, but there is only 1 way to install them.. You need to line up the NO1 piston to tdc before installing the cam.. It will slide right in when at TDC... If the crank is positioned other than TDC, the cam will hit the rods and wont go in..