and i found the ticking noise.

pulled the smog pump out to get a little more working room, it's not going back in.

so i managed to get the right hand valve cover off, and i started checking the rockers for looseness. cylinder 2 checked out ok, so i moved to cylinder #4. checked the intake rocker, and immediately found my culprit. so i checked the nut, it was still tight. then i looked at the stud itself, and it's sitting about 1/8" higher than the other rockers.

i buttoned it back up, and pushed it back to where i had it parked initially.

i'm not sure what to do about it....... someone give me some ideas. i have a rebuilt 305 in my other car, so i'm thinking about putting it in the z28. then i'd take the 350 that i have at a friend's house, and rebuild it for the red car.

sound logical?

give me some ideas.

 

so one of the press in studs is starting to come up?

 

If thats all thats wrong with it, its not a real big deal to fix. It sounds like it just pulled the rocker stud out. I am not sure if you could do it on the car, but you could pull the head, have the stud fixed and have them all pinned so they would not do it again.

 

no, it's actually about 1/8" higher than all of the others.... fairly noticeable.

my 5 speed has a rebuilt 305 in it. i think i'm going to pull the 305, put it in the z28, and then look for a roller 350 block to build for my 5 speed.

 

sounds like a plan...

thats weird only 1 is like that

 

that is strange that only one rocker arm would be doing something. Rob, I would recommend inspecting the area for a possible cracks or stress, I hadn't thought of that earlier.

 

it is indeed weird...... i'm wondering if i could have done this by possibly over revving the engine?

i'm going to keep the castings, cause i'm pretty sure they're 416's.

i'll let you know more when i pull the engine and pull the heads.

 

RTG,

You have a few option.

1. You can ignore it and drive it with the noise. In my experience, once a stud starts to move, it doesn't stop moving. This option is not advisable.

2. You can drive the stud back in, cross-drill and pin it. While this will help prevent the stud from pulling any farther, you may render the heads useless for any future improvement.

3. You can pull the stud the rest of the way, tap the stud boss 7/16-14, and install a screwed repair stud. This won't interfere with any future head improvements, since almost all screwed studs I've seen use the same thread.

If you want to investigate option #3, check this article: Rocker Stud Replacement.pdf

 

i have ignored it for most of the spring, and i wanna take care of it.

i'm pretty sure it has the 416 castings on there, and i don't want to just drive the stud back in, and trash the castings by drilling and pinning.

here's what i'm thinking.

my red camaro has a rebuilt 305 that i know what all was done to it. i have no idea what has been done to this lg4.

if i fix this stud, and pull a second one after i fixed this one, i'd be highly pissed off.

i want a 350 for the red camaro (the one i'm planning on keeping) so i think i'm going to pull the 305 from the red car, and put it in this z28.

 

ttt, and i forgot to thank you, vader, for listing your options.

 

I'd be annoyed, too. That's why if I pulled the cover to replace one, I'd pull the rest and replace all of them. As long as you have a good tap and protect teh drainbacks from chips and debris, go for it. A full set of sixteen Mr. Gasket 1076 replacement studs is about $15-20.