About to start my rebuilt 350...
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Senior Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 860
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From: Alberta, Canada
Car: 1987 IROC
Engine: Vortec 350 TPI
Transmission: 7004r
About to start my rebuilt 350...
Any suggestions and things I should look for while I have it running for the first time?
Im going to run it for 30min to break-in the cam. What if my valve lash is a bit off? will that cause problems with break-in?
Also, I've heard people mention taht the headers will glow red hot initially, has anyone else experianced this? will my wires hold up to that heat???
thanks!
Im going to run it for 30min to break-in the cam. What if my valve lash is a bit off? will that cause problems with break-in?
Also, I've heard people mention taht the headers will glow red hot initially, has anyone else experianced this? will my wires hold up to that heat???
thanks!
Originally posted by Jer82Z28:
Any suggestions and things I should look for while I have it running for the first time?
Im going to run it for 30min to break-in the cam. What if my valve lash is a bit off? will that cause problems with break-in?
Also, I've heard people mention taht the headers will glow red hot initially, has anyone else experianced this? will my wires hold up to that heat???
thanks!
Any suggestions and things I should look for while I have it running for the first time?
Im going to run it for 30min to break-in the cam. What if my valve lash is a bit off? will that cause problems with break-in?
Also, I've heard people mention taht the headers will glow red hot initially, has anyone else experianced this? will my wires hold up to that heat???
thanks!
Look in the Summit or Jegs catalogue and buy an oil pump primer. This is a long rod that fits down into your distributor hole, it is driven by an electric drill. (obviously, the distributor is out when you use this tool)
Engage the rod to the oil pump drive and spin the drill for maybe 15 seconds. This allows oil to pump into your otherwise "dry" motor, and saves significant wear upon first-time startup. The tool only costs about $10, and you'll use it on every new motor.
About glowing exhaust pipes - enh, that is a direct and positve indicator of not enough ignition timing. Not enough advance means that the spark/combustion happen too late in the cycle, and this makes flames travel into the exhaust pipes. Earlier ignition prevents this. Most guys will have their initial distributor lead set up at TDC on a new motor, because that is where everything else is referenced from.
However, your engine MUST have somewhere between 6-12* initial advance in order to run properly. (yeah, I know, some factory specs call for 0)
If you're currently at 0*, the easiest thing to do is just start the engine, and rotate the distributor until you hear the idle increase maybe 200 RPM; this should also smooth out the idle. After the initial break-in, (holding motor at 2000-2500 for 20 minutes) you can set the timing at idle so that it's exact.
About valve lash. If you've gotten it fairly close already, don't worry about it until after the initial 20 minute break-in run. During that first 20 minutes, look for exhaust, coolant, and vacuum leaks. Listen for ANY funky sounds. Smell the exhaust, does it seem too rich, or is it ok?
After the break-in run, change the oil and filter, and THEN run the valves. (preferably with the motor running).
Good luck

BOR
[This message has been edited by Box of Rocks (edited September 25, 2000).]
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