Cracked Oil Pan
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Sep 2000
Posts: 110
Likes: 0
From: Duncan, OK USA
Car: 1987 Z28
Engine: LG-4 305
Transmission: 5-speed
Cracked Oil Pan
I have a cracked oil pan on a 1987 Z28 with the 305 TPI motor. Any advice on changing this pan & what gasket &/or sealer to use from those that have dealt with this before?? Thanks!!!!
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Junior Member
Joined: Apr 2000
Posts: 47
Likes: 0
From: Valparaiso, IN
Car: 90 Formula, blue/silver
Engine: 305 TBI
Transmission: 700R4
Radar--
Get a quality pan for a replacement, GM or other reputable manufacturer. I put together a 327 once and got a cheap no name pan from Jeg's mail order and it was so poorly stamped out it had a gap of 1/8 to 1/4" around the rear main seal. Other than that, Fel-Pro make good gaskets, and some Permatex sealer will do. Your auto parts store will fix you up...
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90 TBI 305 Formula
Original Owner
Auto Trans, T-Tops
Completely Stock Except:
--Flow Cooler water pump
--180 T-stat
Get a quality pan for a replacement, GM or other reputable manufacturer. I put together a 327 once and got a cheap no name pan from Jeg's mail order and it was so poorly stamped out it had a gap of 1/8 to 1/4" around the rear main seal. Other than that, Fel-Pro make good gaskets, and some Permatex sealer will do. Your auto parts store will fix you up...
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90 TBI 305 Formula
Original Owner
Auto Trans, T-Tops
Completely Stock Except:
--Flow Cooler water pump
--180 T-stat
hate to infor myou but you have to raise the engine to get the oil pan out! Mine got screwed up on my original 305 motor which is one of the reasons I went ahead and changed motors...needed an excuse anyways. Me and my dad took all the bolts out and tried every possible way to remove the pan but the crossmember is in the way and won't allow it to come out and it hits the crank b/c of this. We almost had it out but couldn't get it to come out until we finally raise the engine. Had to take the motor mounts out and rise it up a good bit before the pan would clear enough to be removed. Talk about a pain in the rear! GM could have designed this a little better in my opinion. I heard you could remove that crossmember but we didn't hear that until after the job was completed.
As 90Formula stated, you need to get a good pan, We just searched the local junk yards and found a pan off of a wrecked f-body, cleaned it up, re-painted it and it looked like new and was a lot cheaper.
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1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit,
WC T-5, 3.42 gears w/ Auburn posi. MSD 6A, edelbrock TES headers, dynomax 3" cat and cat-back system, ACCEL coil, polyurethane bushings all around, aluminum driveshaft, Mr. Gasket open air cleaner.
1993 S-10 w/ 4.3L V6 TBI, slightly bigger cam, Mild polish job and 3 angle valve job on heads, Edlebrock TES headers, Dynomax cat back, MSD 6A, ADS chip
(bought from my dad)
2000 GMC Sierra Regular Cab Stepside
285hp 5.3L w/ 3.42 gears and locking diff. (sold to my dad..no!!)
[This message has been edited by badbird88 (edited September 28, 2000).]
As 90Formula stated, you need to get a good pan, We just searched the local junk yards and found a pan off of a wrecked f-body, cleaned it up, re-painted it and it looked like new and was a lot cheaper.
------------------
1988 TA 300+hp 350 w/ TBI and Holley TB unit,
WC T-5, 3.42 gears w/ Auburn posi. MSD 6A, edelbrock TES headers, dynomax 3" cat and cat-back system, ACCEL coil, polyurethane bushings all around, aluminum driveshaft, Mr. Gasket open air cleaner.
1993 S-10 w/ 4.3L V6 TBI, slightly bigger cam, Mild polish job and 3 angle valve job on heads, Edlebrock TES headers, Dynomax cat back, MSD 6A, ADS chip
(bought from my dad)
2000 GMC Sierra Regular Cab Stepside
285hp 5.3L w/ 3.42 gears and locking diff. (sold to my dad..no!!)
[This message has been edited by badbird88 (edited September 28, 2000).]
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