For a some time now my engine had been running a bit on the warm side, so I decided to replace my thermostat with a 180 one. After I did this, I took it out driveing on the highway. I noticed it getting hotter again and took it back home. As i turned into my block, it started steaming and then stalled. I couldn't get it started again, so I pushed it home. A few hours later I tryed starting it again and it barely idled. I let it run for a bit and it evened out, but as soon as I gave it throttle it died. So the plugs were changed, and the same thing happened. When I start I can rev it right up, but as soon as I let go of the accelerator and try to rev it up again it dies. Anybody know what is wrong or what I wrecked? The engine is a 350 TPI. Thanks.

 

Got any pics of your GTA? I have a white 88 GTA with the 350 TPI. Anyways, it sounds like you overheated. How high did your temp needle go? This could be a lot of things. You could have a faulty thermostat. Where did you get it? Also, your water pump could be going out. Is there antifreeze on the ground? Could you tell where the steam was coming from? Are you sure it was steam and not white smoke? When you get it started, does it smoke out the tailpipe any? If you overheated it, you could have blown a head gasket, or cracked a head or even the block. Change your oil and see if there is antifreeze in there. It will be obvious if there is. IF there IS antifreeze in your oil, drain it quick and drain your antifreeze too and don't drive the car until you find the problem. If there is antifreeze in your oil, you've got big problems. Once you find out more, let us know and we'll help you get it figured out! Matt

 

all the coolant came out of the overflow tank. Checked oil and looks fine. Found the problem with it overheating, I think, and it was because the air dam was broken off. I just need to know why it dies whenever I try to give it throttle. Could I have damaged any sensors? Car idles normally at like 750-800 rpm. Will go up to 5500 when I first start it. No white smoke either.

 

Alright. I went ouside to try it again, and after a few trys it worked, it would run like it did before. It put it into gear and it didn't die. I went to look under the hood while it was running and noticed a litlle bit of white smoke coming from around the headers ( but none from the tailpipes). So I shut it off. For some reason I tried it again and it started acting up like it did before. What is going on???

 

sorry for all the posts, but I forgotto mention I got a code 34. What does this mean?

 

Wait for the engine to cool completely. Remove the radiator cap and coolant overflow reservoir cap. All the coolant that's missing is probably all over your engine, wiring, and connectors.

Hot water a little soap, and a lot of hot rinse water will remove most of it, but the connectors may need to be removed, cleaned, dried, and treated with silicone grease before reconnection.

 

I had the same problem about a week ago, antifreeze allll over the engine, it was spewing out of the overflow tank, there was lots of steam and I had to let it sit for the night because it was running to hot. Turns out the radiator cap wasn't keeping pressure. If I were you, I'de buy a new one and see if the car runs well. If it doesn't, then you still have a problem to fix, and you only lost $7.99. Worth trying if you ask me.

 

Yes. Thank you all for your help. But I believe I was over heating due to my missing air dam, and should be fixed with a new one. My problem right now is getting the car to actually run. I got code 34 when I tested the SES light. i checked the faq and said it was the MAF sensor. Now do I replace this sensor or what? If so where is it located??

 

PROBLEM SOLVED!!!!! Well sorta. I found the MAF sensor, removed it, started the car to see if it was the problem. Low-and-behold it was? My next question, however stupid it may be is, can I run without it?? I called up crappytire and they said it would be
$433 for a new one. My engine seems to run fine without it. I haven't driven very far due to my missing air dam. The problem all along, I think, was that when the coolant spilled out of the overflow tank, it got the MAF sensor/connections wet causing it to act irradically.

 

Not recommended to run without the MAF. $400+ is WAAAAaaayyyyy too much for a MAF. You can get a reconditioned one for $150 or you can get the Wells replacement one for $167. Check different auto parts stores online for prices/avialibity.

 

WHA?!?!? $433 for a MAF?!? That's a rip off. You could have simply got the MAF code because you spewed antifreeze all over the connector. That would cause it torun erratically like you said. Take the connector off, clean it thoroughly. While you are cleaning it, disconnect the negative battery cable. This will reset the code in the computer. Reconnect the MAF connector, and then the negative battery cable. Start it up and drive it around the block a couple times if it seems to be running okay. If you don't get the code again, you're golden! Replace that air damn ASAP! Also, somebody else suggested replacing the radiator cap. If you've never replaced it since you've owned the car, it's probably a good idea to go ahead and do that. The radiator cap keeps pressure in your radiator, and if you have a bad cap, you won't get pressure and your fluid will boil at a lot lower of a temperature depending on your mixture ratio. Probably about 220 degrees with a bad cap. So, disconnect neg bat cable, clean MAF connector, reconnect cable, drive, check for code, replace air dam, replace radiator cap, and you'll be happier. Matt

 

Thanks Matt. Yah that seemed like a ridiculous price to me also. I will clean it up and see how it works. I have to wait till the end of the month to get it(air dam) fixed though, due to it being damaged after being stolen last month and it won't get into the shop until the 21st. So I won't be driving it much obviously. Rad cap will definetly be replaced. Thanks again for everyones help!