Helms manual states to get #1 Cyl firing position, find zero-lash at push rod, then tighten rocker arm nut 1 FULL TURN past zero-lash on Ex (1,3,4,8.) & In (1,2,5,7). Then, get #6 Cyl firing position, and do the others the same way.

Now, the GTA starts up, sputters, then dies. To tight. Right? Okay, guy at shop told me to only go slightly past 1/4 TURN past zero-lash (4 o'clock position past 12 o'clock with the wrench oriented clockwise) on a cold motor. Is he right?

I wanna be able to do it with the motor "not running" if possible.

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1989 Firebird GTA: black on black 5.7 liter (N10 dual exhaust) with T-tops and leather.

 

You should always check for lash on a warm - hot motor, preferably hot.

I know, you'll burn your hands, but that is the best way. If you are doing it with the engine off, you find zero lash first.

Find the point where the pushrod just does not have up and down movement, but spins freely.

Then tighten the nut 1/2 to 1 full turn. Just make sure you tighten them all the same amount.

If you do it with the motor running, you loosen them up until they start clattering then give them the turn....They should quieten considerably, but the engine should not run rough.

I hope I explained this good enough for you to understand....

p.s. If you do it with the engine running, you are most likely going to get oil all over the place unless you got a shield to block the oil.....

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Sportsman II 72 CC heads, Pete Jackson gear drive, Performance Resources chip, Edelbrock 1 5/8" headers and Edelbrock cat back exhaust, hi-flow cats, Trans-go stage 3 shift kit, Vigilante 9.5" 2800 stall convertor, SLP cold air induction, SLP roller camshaft, 24lb ADS injectors, AFPR, 3.45 rear end gears, and other goodies...

http://members.aol.com/jwnolte/raven.htm

 

Sounds like your lifters are already pumped up. In that case, I always warm the motor, and adjust one valve at a time with the motor running. Find zero lash. Take it down one quarter turn, wait until the engine smooths out, take it down another quarter turn, wait until the engine smooths out, etc, etc, until one full turn. Newer cars are 3/4 turn. I like 1/4 turn for high rpm running. It more noise, but less likly to float.

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49 year old kid in an 538 hp 415 84 Camaro

 

ICBM,
Set them at 1/2 turn. Pull all the spark plugs - it will make turning the motor over by hand easy (after you've lossened the serpentine belt).

Find TDC on #1, you can double-check by popping the cap and looking at the rotor - if it's pointed at #1 you're very close to TDC. Set both lifters by rotating the pushrod whilst tightening the rocker arm - until you feel the pushrod JUST barely become harder to turn. Then, tighten the rockers 1/2 turn more.

You are looking for the "flat" equivalent of the cam - that is where you have to adjust each rocker. Watch the lifters - one cylinder at a time...rotate the engine forward and then come back a tad... until the lifter you're adjusting is in the middle of the "flat" (it will be all the way down as far as it can go). Then, spin the pushrod while tightening until you feel resistance. Add 1/2 turn.

Good luck.

If you're still having probs, e-mail me at oldvette@bellsouth.net

BOR

 

FYI, if you overtighten the lifters, the valves will not close all the way. If you undertighten them, like the guy running 1/4 turn, you won't have full lift as the plunger in the lifter will eat some as it bottoms. Doesn't bottom as much at higher rpms, but still should go to bout 1/4 turn before plunger bottoms. You can figure how deep your plunger can plunge w/dial indicator OR adjust the valve down say 3/4 of a turn. wait about 2 minutes. Then turn the pushrod, if you can. It will be slightly hard to turn, but not too bad. If you can turn it, crank down on the adjust nut a little more and repeat process until you find out how many turns down lifter bottom is. when you hit lifter bottom, you will not be able to turn pushrod AT ALL. Once you know how deep the plunger is in adjustment **** turns, you can use the middle of the range. If you want more/max lift, go a little farther down. This should be done while hot/warm...

That's why race cars don't use hyd lifters, by the way, to get ALL the lift they can instead of wasting it on a little device that adjusts the valve for the lazy folk, like me...

 

I agree with FB in finding the total travel and then adjusting to the mid point, good idea!

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"84Z28/'91 305TPI comp cam flowmaster TB coolant bypass/shutoff valve to heater core MAT relocated Ram-Air(home-made) gutted air-box IROC ground effects/wheels GY245/50's 700R4 superior shift kit/ corvette servo(excellent shift kit BTW) Rebuilt engine and transplanted it myself. Love this engine!
LOW performance people should drive low performance vehicles!

 

ABSOLUTELY WE DONT USE HYDROLIC LIFTER IN THE RACE CAR! lol damn... that wouldnt/didnt work for ****. Actually, most race teams will actually fine tune the motor, to slightly tweak the power curve by puttin different lashes on the exhaust vs the intake valve. we picked up about 5-6 hp in the dyno, and also were able to move the curves around to the extent of about 700 rpm difference, which make a big ifference for coming off the corner in circle track racing... we have almost always used solid lifters...

Steve