I'm getting new heads and a cam for my 1991 z28, and i figure while im in there, i might as well have the engine rebuilt as well. I'm going to be getting one of the summit rebuild kits, i've been told they are very good, but which one do i want? In my summit catalog like 1 page in they have a kit for chevy smallblock 350's, is this the one i want?

I'm probably gonna run 9.5:1 compression on this as well.

The heads i am getting are the Edelbrock RPM Performer 64cc heads.

The cam is an SLP 224/230 duration, 502/510 lift with a 112 centerline.

I'm going to probably get the keith black or TRW pistons with the rebuild kit, do i want to get flat or dished pistons? And do i want .010, .020, up to .060 pistons?

Also i'm going to get a new crank as well, might as well right? Do i want a .010 or .020 crank.

ALSO (i know i dont stop do i?) I figure i'll get some 1.6 rollers too, who makes good ones and what size stud do i need to order?

One more thing, oil pan, i need a new one, mines got a nice big dent in it, who makes a good one?

The goal of this car is pure speed, mainly 1/4 mile times i'd say, so whatever would be ideal for 1/4 mile running, lay it on me. My trans is built up pretty dam good, i have the g92 rear axle, and i've got some spohn suspension going into it (lca's, panhard, torque arm, sfc's whenever they're ready), as well as SLP runners matched to the plenum.

Thanks, i appreciate any and all help i can get, i realize this is alot but im sure someone out there will have fun with it

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[This message has been edited by noam (edited October 05, 2000).]

 

if you're buying a new crank you don't want undersized and if you're block isn't overbored you want standard pistons. for your rockers you'd want 3/8 studs holes. if you're buying studs you'd want 7/16-3/8. oil pan shouldn't be ahrd to find, look at moroso parts.

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-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-

 

you said i don't want an undersized crank, what's a normal sized crank then? or should i just keep the one i already have?

i would imagine comp cam makes good rollers right?

and do you know if i'd want the flat or dished pistons?

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a "normal" size crank is called standard, or std. if your cranks isn't wore there isn't much reason to get another one. you need to measure your crank and block to see what you have and what you need.

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-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-

 

anyone know if i want the flat or dished pistons? and which are better the keith black's or TRW's?

 

With 64cc heads, flat-top pistons will give you about 10.3:1 CR. This is about the most you want for a street motor. Dish pistons will give you lower CR obviously, how much lower depends on the size of the dish. If I was building your motor I'd use flat-tops and the thicker Fel-Pro gasket (1044 IIRC). IMHO 9.5:1 is lower than optimum for your application, I think you'll be happier with the higher number.

Use forged pistons. They are the most durable and lightest. TRW has forged ones (L2256F maybe?), I'm not sure whether KB has forged in a flat-top or not, either one should be a suitable piece for your application depending on availability.

Your piston oversize depends on whether / how much you bore the block. You have to match the pistons to the new bore size. If your block is in really good shape, run it at std bore. This isn't exactly something you can count on before you tear it down though. Very few shops can bore cylinders accurately to the exact right location; most (especially non-racing specialty places, like your local parts store or whatever) will bore the new hole centered on the wear. This is not good for a high-perf buildup. Since the factory bores blocks geometrically perfectly - that is, all cylinders pointed exactly at the crank journal, all spacing between them exactly to spec, etc., I use std bore whenever possible. With forged pistons you want a somewhat looser fit of the piston to the bore than you would with cast (stock) pistons anyway, so often you can simply hone a block out, and it will be fine. Look for the wear in thecylinders to clean up at less than about .003" of oversize from honing, or about .005" of bore clearance max. If all the vertical scratches clean up, then you don't need to bore it, and that's money in your pocket.

I'd suggest the Comp steel roller-tip rockers, which would be part # 1416 for 1.6s in your application. If you really want to bite off, get their 1102 racing full-roller ones, cool but not totally necessary. You will use the non-self-aligning ones because those heads come with guide plates. Their studs are 3/8". The springs and hardware that come on those heads are OK for this setup.

You might want to take a look at Comp's roller grinds, particularly the "305" and "306" grinds (those aren't the durations!). IMHO they are a better cam than the SLP one which is a bit mild due to their being concerned with warranty issues in their SS and Firehawk builds.

Talk to Brian at Eagle, or to someone at Lunati, about a crank. Both of those companies have fairly inexpensive forged cranks for your application.

A factory replacement pan should be fine. Use a Melling M55 pump, put the Mr Gasket spring in it, IS-55E shaft, & S55-1 screen.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

thank you for your very helpful suggestions, my only question now is which cam is it that you're talking about, i looked through some catalog's and i can't find the one(s) you were talking about.

 

Here's the "305" grind... it lists as a 276HR for 87-up (factory roller) motors.

COMPETITION CAMS CAMSHAFT SPECIFICATION SHEET

PART # 08-305-8
GRIND NUMBER: CS 276H-R14
ENGINE: CHEVY SM BLK 305-350
INTAKE EXHAUST
VALVE ADJUSTMENT HYD HYD
GROSS VALVE LIFT .510 .510
.006 TAPPET LIFT 276 290
VALVE TIMING OPEN CLOSE
AT .050 INT 0 BTDC 40 ABDC
EXH 53 BBDC 3-ATDC
THESE SPECS ARE FOR CAM INSTALLED
AT 110 INTAKE CENTER LINE
INTAKE EXHAUST
DURATION AT .050 220 230
LOBE LIFT .3400 .3400
LOBE SEPARATION 114
THIS CAM SHOULD USE SPRING # 986-16

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

my only problem with that cam is that it's going to give me a horrid idle isnt it.

 

If you get a custom prom the idle shouldn't be too bad, especially with a 114 LSA. Since you say the car will be mainly for 1/4 mile, why not up the compression a bit and add a Miniram?

A lot of LT1 guys run the CC 305 and 306 cams with excellent results. You should do about the same if you use a MR.

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1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60' on "Road Hugger" radials and dead Auburn posi.

 

is it me, or can i not find that cam on the compcams web page, i found 08-503-8 but no 08-305-8, the 503 says the LSA is 112

224/230 .503/.510

 

http://www.competitioncams.com/camcard.html


Drop the list down, scroll down to the "Chevy 87-present 305& 350" section (not far down), that one is in that series. I copied the specs directly off the 276HR page.

If you're really after pure speed as your primary goal, and you intend to keep the TPI, that's an excellent cam. If you were using a carb you could easily go a step or 2 higher. That cam will still work well enough with the stock chip that you shouldn't have any trouble at idle or otherwise on the street.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."