I went out to start my '89 IROC the other day and, after starting up instantly and running for about a second, the engine just cut out. I tried starting it again, and the starter just cranked over and over--but the engine wouldn't even try to start. I did this probably about five times across three or so minutes, and made no progress.

In order to avoid killing the battery, I left the car alone for about ten minutes and when I came back, the car started right up and has run fine since.

I know I've had similar things happen before (although, in the past, it really only happened when the car was hot--but it was sitting for five hours when I tried starting it). Trying to think of what it might be, I thought of VATS...

I know the VATS system can keep the car from starting if it does not see the correct resistance across the key; but, if the engine is already running, can VATS still kill the engine (i.e. if the VATS resistor were to be somehow removed)?

I appreciate any help!

 

a quick and easy way to check the vats. if you have an ohmeter ,measure the resistance between the two terminals on the key(this is the small black circle in front of the part of the key you would normally hold with your fingers).MAKE SURE YOUR READING IS ACCURATE!!! If you are positive of the reading,go to any alarm shop that sells DEI alarm products and ask for a VATS pack for a remote start application. you will find the correct resistor in this,and it is very inexpensive( way under 10.00),you might even talk them into checking the key resistance for you.next check the wiring coming out of bottom of steering column .you are looking for 2 white wires in an orange or black wire sheath .clip both wires and put right resistor between the 2 wire GOING AWAY FROM COLUMN NOT INTO IT!! If car starts and runs fine this answers your question if not you have different problem. VATS usually affects starting only not running.hope this helps .feel free to email me with questions.

 

This may sound dumb, but have you checked your fuses?

Could be a blown fuse under the dash.

 

RE: Fuses... I haven't checked any fuses recently. As this is a problem that happens and then "spontaneously" goes away, I don't think a fuse would be the culprit.

 

I've seen the resistor on the key wear down to bad contact points and the socket in column do same. On Corvettes, the vats has a starter relay cut and also shuts down fuel pump,this runs thru ECM,i do not know of any fuses for the system. I would think that it would be same on camaros and firebirds.

 

from my experience with vats(mine is bad and screws up every now and then) if vats is the problem the car will NOT crank at all.
and the only reading vats does is when the key is first put in and turned. if the car stalls when you go to restart it as long as you didnt turn the key to the off position it doesnt even look at the vats again.
but like I said b4 if it was your vats the car wouldnt even crank at all.

 

sounds like a plan to me,it wouldn't make sense to me for it to cut the fuel pump while the car is running(lawsuit waiting to happen)