I have an 88' L98 IROC-Z and want to rebuild the engine and stroke it to a 383. I want to rebuild it because I plan to highly modify the engine, and I want to stroke it to get that extra punch obviously! I know i need to buy a 383 Stroker Kit or buy all the parts that come in the kit, but what does a full rebuild consist of, and would some components in the rebuild be apart of a stroker kit? Thanks!

 

I love questions like this.

Okay, a full rebuild would consist of taking the engine down to the bare block. Then start from scratch building it up. If you are going to go with a 383 that as you say will be "highly modified" then I would suggest you buy a rotating assembly as a kit: crank, rods, pistons, bearings, and rings. This way you get all of those things together and usually it saves you some money this way. Find a good machine shop. Ask around if you don't know of any. The machine shop I use is a "performance/racing" machine shop. They are no more expensive than any of the other shops, but they already know what I want to do and have done most of it. They can get parts fast and they are very helpful.

Anyway, you could do the assembly of the engine yourself if you have the tools and willingness to read enough about it to be set.
Machine work is very critical to making a successful engine. Don't skimp there, it will bite you in the long run. Yes, thats experience talking, poor quality machine work cost me a 350 when I was in high school...

As for parts, I would suggest going with forged rods and pistons. You could get away with an iron crank, but I say get the steel one. More strength for when you decide you need nitrous or something...

Things like gaskets, hoses, seals, plugs, lots of little stuff really adds up quick so try to account for that when planning your engine. Just saying, say $2000 or whatever, for the rotating assembly and block ready to go is only part of it. Gaskets and all the other incedentals can make it a few hundred more in a hurry...

 

Just thought of something else. A flywheel and harmonic balancer may not be part of a stroker kit. And they are needed. If you are going external balance, then they are needed up front. Heres a pic of my latest beast. I would tell you how much it all costs, but even I don't want to know...

 

nobody seems to want to answer this question but ill try asking it again. If you wanted to stroke a stock block to 383 how much weaker does the boreing make the block? How much power can a stock block take safely (either bored for a 383 or just stock. Is the main weakness the 2 bolt mains? Is there anything that can be done to strengthen the block? While broke i am in the planning stages as to what i want to do when i rebuild and stroke my engine. I have to figure out what my power limitations on a stock block are and if i will need to go aftermarket.

 

2 bolt mains, good for around 500 HP (block only) You can get the Splayed main cap "kit" to convert it to a 4 bolt with splayed mains, then it will be quite strong.
To do the rebuild you'd need the cylinders bored (with torque plates on) +.030-+.060 over (to add cubes). You'd need the block relieved for clearance for the 3.75" stroke crank. You would also want the mains align honed to ensure they are all in a nice straight line. Get the lifter bores checked/straightened. Getthe heads magnafluxed (checked for cracks) have valves replaced with good stainless steel ones, good springs, retainers and locks. Have a 3 angle valve job done on the heads.
All told you're talking in the neighborhood of $1500 for machine work

Buy your stroker kit (around $1500), get one with a good crank and at least hypereutectic pistons and good rods. You would also need to buy a harmonic balancer and flexplate/flywheel for externally balanced SBC. Other things you'd need..bolts (don't skimp on these), rocker arms, pushrods, lifters (unless you are reusing stock roller lifters), water pump, cam, timing chain set, gaskets, sealants etc.
Add that all up and compare to this http://www.sdpc2000.com/cart.asp?act...=1577&pid=9009
It isn't a stroker but it has more power than an L98 and is a brand new engine.

 

yeah but personally id never buy a long block. A short block is so much better because then you can decide what you have on the top half of the block because the internals arent even that important they are more a determining factor of strength. All of the stuff thats not included in the short block is the stuff that will effect your power.

 

Well, it seems that every time i find a way to create awesome power out of my L98, another way comes to mind, and there never cheap. I really might just replace the engine cause it has been a dream of mine to drop a V8 in a 240Z (along with a bunch of other speed freaks). So im kinda stumped. I have a Ford vs. Chevy question- You can buy a Fox-body 5.0 with the strong 8.8 rear, the BW 5 speed, and a curb weight equal to a vette, OR buy a 350 IROC or GTA- with a weak rear-end, only coming with an auto, and is a couple hundred pounds more. PLEASE, someone set me straight, Im a Die Hard GM fan but im having nightmares that when i build my 350 some blown 302 5.0 will blast by me! PLEASE, someone help.

 

POwer question was answered..

Boring a block will not in all practical purposes, make it weaker.

Only reason to bore a block is clean up and true up the bores where the pistons ride.

"383" stroked 350, but if you have a bore that needs no machining, you can still stroke it...it won't be a "383" but about at 377.

Keep in mind you do not (noramlly) bore a block for desired hp/tq, just part of a rebuild if needed...i/e you have a virgin, true 4 inch bore...no need to spend the extra dollars to have it bored jst to call it a 383.

Hope this helps.

 

You will always find someone faster than you. As you said it is never cheap. You could say that speed and expense are directly proportional, the more you spend the faster you CAN go. Now we all know that that is not always true. May people put together budget cars that fly.

As for you concerns over a Fox ****stain (oh did I say that out loud, my bad). Examine what you said though, a NA 350 vs. a blown 302, thats comparing apples to oranges. I say don't worry about it. Build you engine, trans, and rear up and go have fun. As for the rear, you should be able to go into the 11s with a rebuilt rear. If you get a trans brake and some stick slicks, it won't be around very long. You can easily build up 400+ reliable ponies that you trans and rear can handle with some upgrading. If you take it easy on the rear, as in save your hard launches for the strip or when someone that you really WANT to beat comes up next to ya, then it will be fine for a while.

I guess it really comes down to what you like... A visually appealing, areodynamic, sports coupe or a plain looking, box on a skateboard...:sillylol:

 

thanks for all the info, but i never said that my 350 was going to be NA! Ok, heres the deal, i use to have a 350 IROC but my dad has it for now and i was going to buy it back after i enlisted in the military. so i needed a cheap car to get around town before i shipped out, and my friend was in a similiar problem, so him and i bought an 88 5.0 for $1500 form a friend of ours. while the 350 IROC will usually range from $4500 to $5500. i was asking why spend that extra money on an F-body when the stock rear end in the 5.0 is much stronger and weighs less, and also comes in a 5 speed.( oh ya i still HATE FORD but 5.0's are awesome, i was driving one day and my dad ways in front of me in his IROC and we both took off and i was pulling on him hard. and the IROC is in much better condition then the 5.0) Besides looks, why spend so much more money to build up a muscle car?

 

Edited for misunderstanding

 

Well I apologize for offending your delicate sensabilities...

Nevermind...

 

Edited for miunderstanding

 

Edited for misunderstanding

 

8mike9:
I wasn't refering to your post. I agree 150% with what you are saying. Its this other one that has me confused. The guy at first sounded like lots of others torn by possible project cars. Then we find out he already has the other. Why bother asking in the first place?

 

My apologies.

I'll edit out my rants

 

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i wasn't trying to be a punk and i wasn't implying that you "offended" me 92 zzz28! I was just trying to ask a simple question without having others possibly have a bias reply because i own a Ford. Also, i dont have "the other" and second of all-why ask the question in the first place, to learn 92 zzz28, because even though i know a lot more than all the kids in my town about cars, i know only a fraction of what most of these thirdgen.org members know, well, maybe except for one!