heres the run down of problems:
1. stalls out after cold starts, does start up again though
2. idle has been getting worse at cold start ups, it searches going from 500 to 1000 rpm in a regular motion
3. finding oil traces on and around the spark plug and wire of the 2nd cylinder from the passengers seat
4. low rpm response is poor when not warmed up and when warm its not great, like a normal running car
5. i was looking under the hood today to find out what the heck is wrong but found only the oil, i figured its just oil so i start her up maybe if i whatch the aera while its on i can find out something, well i see the rough idle and the it warms and this took like 30 to 45 seconds and i start to see white smoke come up from where that plug wire is. i killed the ignition and said oh crap, now im here.

things people ask:
plugs and wires are a few thousand miles old
engine is stock
code 14-high temp at engine coolant temp sensor
code 45-oxygen sensor rich
lg4 with t5

i havent checked the plug cause its a bitch to get to ill go do it soon and say what it looked like.

what kind of things cause my engine to burn rich, how should i check to see whats wrong?

 

BG Eight-Four,

Your car should have the E4ME Rochester Quadrajet. Rich operation can be caused by a sticking choke, high fuel bowl level, leaking carburetor, or incompete combustion.

The sticking choke can be caused by poor adjustment, dirt and varnish buildup on the linkages, a failing vacuum pull-off unit (choke unloader), a failed choke heater element, or bent/damaged linkages.

A high level of fuel in the bowl can be caused by a sticking or damaged inlet needle/seat, excessive fuel pressure, or a damaged/sticking float.

Leakage from the carburetor is not uncommon on Quadrajets that are older. The main metering well plugs on the underside of the carburetor body are only staked into the recesses, and they can eventually erode and leak, allowing raw fuel to dump into the intake. These are easily repaired by cleaning/sanding the area, then applying a fuel-resistant repair epoxy to seal over the plugs.

Incomplete combustion can cause an apparent rich condition by preventing burning all the fuel that is delivered to each cylinder. Like it or not, you're eventually going to have to remove all the spark plugs and check their condition, as well as test each plug wire for continuity and inspect them for damaged insulation. This would be in addition to inspecting the distributor cap and rotor for wear and damage.

 

you said sticking choke
the car had sat all night and i poped the hood and took off the air filter assembly

i look all over the car for any damage i can spot(i havent a clue what im looking for) but the the about a sticking choke set me off, there are 4 barrels and there are two covered by one blade and two covered by a different blade the rear toward the driveer is the bigger one and the smaller one toward the front of the car is raised up higher.
heres the question
the smaller one was pivioted to the open state when i took off the air cleaner unit is that what you mean by sticking choke.
i ask this because i was fiddleing with some of the moving components to see what they do and i found a moving part that was on the front driver side of the carb and i moved it a little and the open blade poped close leaveing me wodering if i did something wrong.

another thing, i don't have a spark plug socket for some damn reason, crap!, also i never get any smoke or discharge from the exhaust so this fact leads me to toward the conclusion that nothing is leaking into the cylinders to burn, todays start up that was mentioned had no visible discharge from the pipes at all.

 

i found out the smoke was oil burning from where i think its leaking around the valve covers, looks like its time for new seals there, a guy told me today thats a problem sometimes,


also!
there is a noise coming from what i thing is a relay right next to the distributor? what the hack is that thing
i have pictures but they are big

 

That single "blade" is the choke. When the engine is cold and the throttle is opened, the choke should close as you described.

As for your error codes, check the CTS connector, wiring, and sensor. As long as you have a '14', the ECM will default to a rich condition, possibly contributing to the '45' you are also generating. The '14' means that either the sensor or its wiring is shorted, causing the ECM to read a full high temperature indication.

From your description, the "relay" right next to the distributor might be the EGR vacuum solenoid. A photo would help to clarify that. If I recall correctly, an '84 would have two large, stacked solenoid valves (usually red plastic) adjacent to the distributor.

 

yes it is my egr soleniod, but it make this aful clicking rackt that coelates to rpm its rather annoying ive check some on the piping and it seems to be all conected, but there is still the leak inthe manifold that i can figure out what it ia, there is a hold on the other side of the manifold spraying coolant and i can figure out if somthing goes in it


the egr soleniod is on the other side of the distrib, but you knew that any way