I have a '90 Iroc, TPI 305, 5 spd. I'm thinking about getting an aftermarket chip and lower temp. thermostat. Most of the companies offer a 160 degree stat with their chips, but I read somewhere that 160 is too cold. This page said that in the winter, the heater and defrost won't work with a 160 stat. This is a problem for me as I live in NY and will soon be moving to Mass. I would like to know if anyone else has heard of this or experienced it. All info will be helpful. Thanks. Here's that website: http://members.aol.com/mmmm999/3rd-degree/tips/cool.htm

 

90,

Even though MikeInAZ lives in the great southwest, he understands that cool northern winters may overcoola an engine that has a lower temperature thermostat. If you are going to change, try a 180°F for winter, then switch to a 160° in spring. 160°F coolant will make a nice, foggy mess out of the inside of your car since the air moving through the core will never get hot enough to evaporate moisture well, especially when trying to fight the chilled air coming from the AC evaporator when you're in the defrost mode.

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Later,
Vader
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"Make Me Bad"
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I have a 160* T-stat and I use it all year round. On the WestCoast of Canada, we have quite mild temperatures so it isn't a problem.

I just recently moved to Kamloops, where it gets a bit colder, but for the time being, I have no intentions of replacing my T-stat, nor reconnect my Throttle Body bypass.

Ask me a couple of months from now, and see if I have changed my mind on either of these points. The temperature is usually -10*C to -15*C, with the occasional cold snap of -20*C. I've driven the car before in -10*C temperatures and it was fine. The car wasn't "toasty" but it was cold either.

 

I'm in PA with a 160* stat right now. No problem warning up so far, but the car runs too cold IMO. The needle does not go above 1/4 or near it while driving. But if sat in the same spot for too long it'll get warm. Just something to think about.

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1989 Camaro RS LO3 WCT5 "The Hose Queen" 0-60' 2.34 1/4 15.8@87mph
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I'm in NJ, and I'm freezing my butt off without any heat! I'm putting the 195 back in this weekend. I usually do this a month or two earlier, but, crap happens. When I can't get to it right away, I take a hint from tractor-trailer drivers; I cover 1/3 of the radiator with a pizza box lid.

My car heats the way GetBlown talks about... my mechanical gauge shows the temp never bounces above 130 when I drive.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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Vader, how would there be any fight between heater-core-air and chilled air from the a/c evaporator? The temperature control should be shoved to "hot", and that would block off any air from the evaporator. Unless you meant the temprature door would get cold? That doesn't sound like much of a fight, though.


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Vader is right about the AC coil, I just wanted to say it does make a mess even when you have defrost all the way on hot. The AC compressor runs to warm up the engine I supppose and reduce moisture in the air to defrost the window.

 

Unless I missed something obvious in the operation of the heating controls: The climate door, which is controlled by the "hot/cold" temp lever, will either block off air from the heater core, block off air from the a/c evaporator, OR allow for middle ground.

I've always understood it that the a/c cycles on/off in defrost to keep the compressor from freezing up through lack of use.

There's no way the blower motor can shove air through the a/c evaporator if the heater door is wide open for "heat".

At least, that's how I understand it. Someone explain to me how air sneaks through the evaporator with the door closed?


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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