Well this started after changing my tranny/motor oil but I think its not related. These are a bunch of things I did allready...

1st thing I noticed first my trunk release don't open so I check out all the fuses first and eveything is good. Next I check out the ignition wires and all check out good. Next I checked out the starter and there was no 12v crank power, jumped 12v to starter and it tested good, so that means it inside.

First thing I noticed that the starter wire from the ignition switch is a 10g yellow. So I traced it to a SPDT relay on the driver's side underdash right above the kick pannel, replaced relay still no start. Then found a 10g green that leads to the neutral saftey switch then I found the purple starter wire. Jumped the purple to 12v and the starter cranks. SO that means the relay on the kick pannel is not getting triggered. So I assumed its the neutral saftey switch. I took it apart and cleaned the contacts. Put it back in and now the trunk opens but still no start!

Now i'm lost and don't know what to do next. Any help will be appreciated and hope this will help in the future to other fellow thirdgen members unless this problem was in the past and some resolved this problem...Sorry it this post sounds confusing but anybody have experience in the wiring on the thirgen Camaro will know what i'm taking about....

Thanks!

 

What does the SECURITY or VATS light on the dash do when you turn on the ignition?

 

I think there were no security light when the key is on? Does that mean anything?

Thanks

 

If I'm correct, the VATS light should at least flash a few times when the ignition is turned on.

 

Also I had a question if the VATS if its bad will the car still run? I ran a wire from the starter to the battery. I turned the igniton and jumped the starter wire and the car starts up fine. If its a bad VATS won't it not run?

Also something I forgot and left out. While the nuetral saftey switch was out I had it in the part postion and cranked it a few times and noticed the ignition lights would did or cut off and seem to me the neutral saftey switch was getting hot.

 

I would like to thank Vader that made the effort to help me a tiny bit. Not much help from this third gen forums maybe becasue I got a GN?

 

No, it's more likely that we're just slow.

You're correct about the VATS, in that if there is a fault, there will be no injector pulses and no cranking. Since you can jump the starter and run the engine, you probably have a different problem. I was only curious about the VATS so that we could determine if the ignition switch was operating correctly.

When teh switch is in the CRANK position, does the temperature gauge move to full-scale? Do all the dash warning lights turn on?

 

teh switch?

Well it looked like a bad neutral saftey switch. But I hope its just that I replaced the ignition switch also and the VATS relay at the same time. But what really still bothers me is why was something shorting out? Why was the neutral saftey switch got hot while I was in crank? And also on my alarm it smoked my remote start output and melted my wires for my starterkill.

And Vader if did not send you a pm why does nobody offers to chime in and help me with my problems?

 

I just check it now when I crank the water temp jumps all the way to right. And all the dash warrnings lights comes on.

 

People might have been a little better able to help if we'd known that the car's starter wiring had been hacked and that there was this whole other potential malfunction in it.

This is about like asking "why is my car slower than a stock 305?" and then after everybody's taken a stab at telling you it's the timing, the EGR, the smog crap, etc. etc. you mention that there's a 4-cylinder in it.

The temp gauge is supposed to do that. It's the "bulb check" function. Cars with only idiot lights do it too, only they light the light to show that the bulb is working. It would really suck to be driving down the road with the temp gauge showing a normal temp but the engine burning up and the driver not knowing it, because the indicator is defective.

 

So you're saying if I said that I had a remote starter and an alarm system with a starter disable more guys would chime in?

A remote starter systems consists of a bank of relays and then to a remote box that switches on the relays to remote start the vehicle. The relays rest on 30 on the relay so it should no affect the igntion in anyway. And the starter diable for the alarm system has a simple task (just to open and close the starter circuit) so meaning it should have nothing to do with giving me problems I have. I installed nearly a few hundred remote start systems and NEVER ran into a problem like this....You could be right it might had something to do with it but most unlikely it would have not.

Thanks

 

What I am saying is, whenever your alarm malfed and smoked all the wiring in that circuit, it probably took the neutral safety switch with it; and that if you had mentioned that little detail before, maybe somebody would have suggested checking the other parts in the circuit that could have been damaged.

The NSS almost never fails by itself. About 99.999% of all no-crank problems are something other than that. Other than making sure it gets operated by its linkage, it's not something that one would ordinarily think to have to check. So it probably got destroyed in the other incident from the hacked wiring and aftermarket alarm explosion, as opposed to just a normal sort of wear-out failure; and not knowing that there was this whole other dimension to your problem, people wouldn't ordinarily point you to that part.

 

OK thanks!

What are the chances of the starter shorting out the NSS? Because the purple wire at the NSS switch goes directly to the starter solinoid and the green wire goes to the VATS relay.

 

I would say, pretty slim. At least I've never seen one do that, unless the wire was physically damaged somehow (melted, pinched, chafed, etc.)

You can follow it and inspect it; it just goes from the NSS to the big bulkhead connector, and from the other side of that, along the top of the bell housing flange to the little tube that carries it and protects it next to the exhaust and down to the starter. It's possible that it's narfed somehow at or near the starter.