heres the parts i am using:
cast 383 crank (external balance, 2 piece RMS)
400 rods
sealed power hyperuetectic pistons for a 350
4 bolt "010" block

what balancer do i need?
what flywheel do i need to run a T5? (have that currently)
what flywheel do i need to switch to a T56?
what do i need to bring with me when i get everything EXTERNALY balanced?
how much should external balancing cost me?

 

1. A stock 400 one

2. A 83-85 305 one, that's been "unbalanced" to the stock 400 spec (easily done by drilling); or one of those "pork chop" weights if you feel lucky

3. The only one I know of is the Centerforce one

4. Crank, rods, pistons, balancer, flywheel. Although, I've had better results by leaving the balancer out of it entirely, and having the short block balanced to the stock 400 spec, and having a flywheel separately altered to the stock 400 spec. That way, each part is set to the stock spec, so you can replace them at need without requiring any special treatment of the new part to "match" whatever non-stock balance spec they come up with.

5. Should be in the $75-$125 range to true everything up

6. (The answer to a very important question you didn't ask) Have the machine shop drill the correct inner bolt hole for the starter for the 12¾" flywheel while they have the block already there. The block almost certainly doesn't have that hole.

 

thanx RB

yeah didnt really think about the starter situation i would have until now

thanx

 

The machine shop I went to also asked me to bring one set of rod bearings and one set of rings. This was for balancing a medium, errr, large journal 350 (IB). Unfortunately, they didn't give me a discount for making them laugh........

Is it possible to accurately determine correct bob weight without the rings and rod bearings?

S-D

 

Most machine shops have bearings and rings laying around that they can weigh.... tell them what part #s you're going to use.