ALright, here's what it's doing, and what I have done.
It all started when my lower radiator hose went on me. Just a slight leak, but enough to drain my radiator in about 3 miles (I stopped every half mile to put more water in the resivoir (sp) on the way home. Put the new hose on, and it was still leaking! This turned out to be from the top, the radiator cap was leaking, and appeared to be on backwards (one side said rc27 the other said ac, the ac arrow was facing the firewall...) Not sure if that caused any problems or not. Ever since I replaced the hose/cap the engine will run fine until it warms up. Then I'l be driving around, say 50 MPH, 2000 or so RPM. I feel the car jerk a little, and suddenly, it will not go above about 1000 rpms. (which equates to about 7 MPH...pisses off the drivers behind me a little) I get codes 22, 33, 43, 44. I know mp TPS needs some re-wiring...so I tried jsut disconnecting it, then the Helm book had a default error case you could throw it in to to get "some performance back" well, this did nothing. 33 is MAF too much air. I ran the checks and everything seems to be ok! Plus the code is intermit. Won't set from just running for a minute as per the books instructions. I found some messy wiring on the power, and burn off relay, so I cut the bad parts of the wire out, and replaced the conectors. This seemed to run good! I took it out for 1/2 hour, no problems. However, When I got to my destination, I realized I hadn't plugged the MAF back in, but the car was running very nice! Before I left to come home, I plugged the MAF back in...I seemed to lose a little performance! Oh well, Then, about a mile from my house it did it again. The d*mned car cut out. I went out, and pulled the MAF again, nothing, plugged it back in, nothing. Sat cursing for 30 secs (since that always seemed to work before when it did this) and it fired up, and made it to within 300 yds of my house, and cut out again. Let it sit for between 20-30 secs again, and I got it in the driveway w/o a hitch. I ran some basic diags on the ESC, btu not too in depth, the car hates starting in the morning, and it shakes around a lot, and has trouble getting past 2500 rpms until it warms up. The lean exhaust was left over from before my injectors went out for servicing. One thing I had tried before re-wiring the maf relays, was to clear all codes, and run it until it cut out, then pull the code off, it was 33, which led me to believe the MAF circuitry had the problem. I could go into a long cycle of dignosis but I figured someone may be able to tell me what is causing the problem straight out. Any ideas? It did this about 5 months ago, and them mysteriously stopped. Now again? Help
Sorry for the length, just wanted to cover everything.
Corry

 

I would probably fix the TPS before you fix the MAF. The ECM uses TPS & RPM to determine acceptable levels of Mass Air Flow, measured in g/sec.

Hypotheticly, lets say you are cruising at 2000 RPMs with 50% throttle, the computer wants to see, say, 50 g/sec from the MAF. If the TPS is bad, and only showing 10%, then the computer wants to see, say, 9 g/sec, but it is registering 50 g/sec, and bam, MAF code.

As for the cutting out, probably a different problem all together, but it sounds like your car is a wiring nightmare right about now. Get all of your wiring straight, and fix the TPS and MAF codes, then go from there.

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'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey,
22# injectors,
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SSM SFC,
Boxed LCAs,
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Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
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'97 Bonneville SSE

 

I already went through and fixed the wiring. The TPS does need to be fixed, and I got the conenctors to fix it, it's just about 40 degrees outside, with 20-30 MPH winds right now...freeze my hands off trying to fix that now. The loss of power is really of no consequence at the moment though. I need the car to stop dropping to idle or just a little above. Could my ESC module be bad? Just pretending I had extreme detonation and retarding timing like there was no tomorrow. The book says, that it has to be above 900 RPM before the ESC will be "listened to", which makes my problem suspicious. I replaced the ESC Knock sensor last time this happened, and that seemed to fix it. Right now, I'm thinking it's the ESC module, or it's the fuel filter. But then, I've only been working on cars off and on for 2 years now (well, working off and on MY car for the past 2 years) I'll fix the TPS tomorrow, but that has been out of whack for the past 2 months now, so I don't think it would suddenly cause my car to go crazy like this!
Thanks
Corry

 

BTTT

 

Well, I re-wired the TPS, and to my amazement when I started check the adjustment of the TPS after re-wiring it (well, maybe I could have accidentally bumped it around) I found the in it's max position, the voltage was at .49! Well, good ol' vader always says, set it to .54 at idle! I decide to adjsut the screw on the other side of the throttle body to push it foward a little. Well, I made it now that when the TPS is adjusted for max voltage it's at .54 I haven't gotten a chance to take it out for a road test yet to see if it's still pulling this "I won't go above 1000 RPMs anymore" sh*t since I am home w/ my younger brother and don't want to take him with me since every time it does this, I am at risk of getting rear ended! The question I have, is should I open the throttle a little more with this screw? I thought .54 should be approx. the center of adjustment for the TPS.
Anything else?
Corry