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anyone with fuel press. gauge inside car?

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Old Nov 19, 2000 | 06:20 PM
  #1  
John Millican's Avatar
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
anyone with fuel press. gauge inside car?

I'm thinking of putting a fuel pressure gauge inside my car. It is a TPI engine so I would need a high pressure gauge.
Can I see pics where you people have mounted one and did you use an electric or mechanical gauge. For those that used a mechanical gauge, where did you mount the isolator?
Which type would be most recommended? Cost?

------------------
86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Heads, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine belt setup, Dual IROC Fans.

http://www.sethirdgen.org/octride.htm
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Old Nov 19, 2000 | 08:33 PM
  #2  
GMTech's Avatar
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
If you find one, I got dibs on your rail mounted gauge!

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If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
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Savannah, GA

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Old Nov 19, 2000 | 08:50 PM
  #3  
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From: San Diego, CA
Car: 87 Buick GN
Engine: 3.8L (231 cid) V6
Transmission: 200-4R
Axle/Gears: 10 bolt G80/ 3.42
I don't have any pics but I have a mechanical 2 1/16" Autometer Z series on my A pillar gauge pod.

I mounted the isolator on the firewall cowl by the MAF relays using a single adel clamp. I think NHRA rules say you cannot mount the isolator on the firewall but I don't go to the track much so I said screw it. Lately I've had trouble with the isolator so I removed it for now and run straight to the gauge. (I don't drive it like it that, I cap off the scraeder valve when I'm driving. I just do that for setting FP)

I recommend getting an electric FP gauge instead, it's MUCH easier to install and just as accurate. With a mechanical gauge its accuracy depends on how well you fill and bleed the isolator. It took me a few times to get it right and can get messy. I will get an electric FP gauge soon from Autometer.

------------------
1989 IROC-Z, ZZ3 shortblock with some bolt-ons.
13.20 @ 108.69, 2.2 60'
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Old Nov 19, 2000 | 09:19 PM
  #4  
John Millican's Avatar
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
I've heard of trouble with isolators before. Anyone have an opinion on electric gauges? I've seen a couple and they seem to be expensive.

GMTech, you have dibs on my rail mounted one but I can't see it while driving so neither will you That's when I need it, during WOT runs.....checking to see if my fuel pump is putting out


------------------
86 Camaro Sport
383 Speed-O-Motive Crate Engine, Trick Flow Heads, 58mm Accel TB, 3.73 Auburn Pro, SLP Cold Air Induction and Headers, Dynomax Cat-back, Serpentine belt setup, Dual IROC Fans.

http://www.sethirdgen.org/octride.htm
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Old Nov 19, 2000 | 09:49 PM
  #5  
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From: Tucson, Arizona USA
Car: 1987 Z28 Convertible
Engine: 305 TPI
Transmission: 5-speed
I have an Autometer electric fuel pressure gauge. It has been checked against two mechanical gauges and is accurate to within 1 psig. It's very easy to install. The only drawback is it's cost. Check out the link in my sig and go to "In the Driver's Seat" for pics.

------------------
Willie

Supercharged 1987 305 IROC-Z, Daily-Driver, Emissions-Legal.
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12.04 @ 114 mph (50-hp nitrous).
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1987 "20th Anniversary Commemorative Edition" Z28 Convertible -- Super Chevy Show Class Winner, 1998.
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Old Nov 20, 2000 | 04:41 AM
  #6  
Omar's Avatar
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From: San Diego, CA
Willie, where did you mount your pressure module at? I have my autometer electric gauge on my a-pillar, and my module near my ECM. I constantly read 10PSI lower on my electric gauge. I am wondering if the lengthening of the wires have anything to do with it.

------------------
1989 IROC-Z 5.7L
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Old Nov 20, 2000 | 05:56 AM
  #7  
GMTech's Avatar
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From: Vereinigten Staaten
Car: Take
Engine: Your
Transmission: Pick
John, if that fuel pump of yours isn't putting out enough fuel, then you have some really big problems. (Do they make a bigger fuel pump than that?)

------------------
If you live in Southeastern US, check us out!
South East Thirdgen


ASE Master Tech + L1
Savannah, GA

'87 Trans Am
S/D TPI retrofit including functional PassKey,
22# injectors,
JET AFPR,
Ported Plenum,
TB Coolant Bypass,
SSM SFC,
Boxed LCAs,
8mm Accel wires,
Flowmaster Exhaust,
16" GTA rims,
Corvette Servo,
KYB Shocks

'97 Bonneville SSE
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Old Nov 20, 2000 | 10:41 AM
  #8  
John Millican's Avatar
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From: Savannah, GA
Car: 1997 Jeep Wrangler
Engine: 4.0L
Transmission: 5 speed
Axle/Gears: 8.8 rear, 4.56 gears, 4:1 transfer
Originally posted by GMTech:
John, if that fuel pump of yours isn't putting out enough fuel, then you have some really big problems. (Do they make a bigger fuel pump than that?)


I'm just curious, that's all. But remember that my fuel lines are stock sizes and I read that to feed 400hp you need 1/2" lines.
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Old Nov 20, 2000 | 11:51 AM
  #9  
TomP's Avatar
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From: Central NJ, USA
Car: 1986 Firebird
Engine: 2.8 V6
Transmission: 700R4
There's a tech article in the tech section about getting the isolator, it's pretty well detailed.


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
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