What would you say the power band would be on a cam with these specs?

226/234 .554/.544 114

I am considering this cam for use on a car with an auto tranny and a 12psi blower.

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1991 RS LT1 - red/black, all-forged 355 with Stage 2 GTP heads and custom grind, bolt-ons, and D-1sc on the horizon.

2000 C5 Coupe - black/black 6-spd, optional polished rims, 13.05 @ 109.52 showroom stock.

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Brett,

O.K., I'll bite.

Even though you have a relatively wide LSA, the long duration (presumed @ 0.050" valve lifts) and high net lifts are going to put the best performance well above idle. With those net lifts, I can only imagine the kind of ramps on the pattern. Peak RPM will probably be under 7,000 without a rev kit. Depending upon your valve train mass, it could be significantly lower. Idle quality will probably be reduced since the overlap will cause a lower idle vacuum, and real power will start coming on line at above 2,200 RPM or higher.

Just my guess.

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Later,
Vader
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I do not want to disagree with vader, because basically he is the man, but I will also give it a shot. Well actally I do not disagree with him. Based on similar cams, I am going to say your powerband will be around 2200/2300-6100/6200, as far as max RPM, vader is right, keep in mind that hyd rollers lifters are very heavy and do tend to float earlier, a rev kit would be cheap insurce. As ffar as using it with a blower, excellent blower cam due to it's wider lobe sep bleading off less Boost.

 

That's good to hear, I wasn't sure if I was close enough to be "on the ball" with my predictions. Once I get the blower I probably won't spin it as high and *may* end up switching to a different cam by then - but time will tell.

The valvetrain and bottom end I've put together should hold up fairly well to the RPM capabilities of the cam. All forged bottom end balanced and blueprinted. And the valvetrain consists of the hydraulic cam, Crane 'R' lifters, Trick Flow 1pc chrome-moly push rods w/ .080" wall, Comp dual valvesprings and titanium retainers, Comp Pro Magnum 1.6/1.5 rockers with guideplates, and an AFR hydra-rev kit, all pushing Ferrea lightweight 2.00/1.55 valves.

I have been trying to match the whole car as closely as I can. I've gone through about 500 sheets of paper with numbers and math figuring out gear ratios and tire sizes/rpm in relation to tranny gearing and 1/4 mile traps and engine RPM. My target has been the ability to shift under full throttle at 6200rpm so I can hold onto 3rd at the end of the 1/4 mile with 3.73s. 4.10s were a consideration - and a definite liklihood without a blower on the car. But with the extra power and the 4.10s I would be shifting into 4th before the end of the 1/4
and would probably lose some speed in the shift. But I suppose that is dependent upon the transmisson and how I build it. The possibility exists that I may change the gearing in the 4L60E. But I won't even get into that until next season.

Not that I will spin the engine over 5500 very often, but I opted for some insurance for when I do romp on it. I don't think the car will see RPMs over 5000-5500 until I build the tranny sufficiently. I will only just be getting the car on the road full time for the first time in over a year so I definitely won't be heading out the first weekend and grenading it!