Should I get rid of my power steering and/or power brakes?
Should I get rid of my power steering and/or power brakes?
The primary function of my formula has changed from daily driver to just a toy now. I am working on an engine buildup over the winter and I want to see the best performance possible in the spring. I have already removed my entire heating and air conditioning system, the AIR system, and I am switching to carb as well. My car will mostly just be driven to the dragstrip, raced, and (hopefully) driven home. I will also drive it around from time to time and I will be driving it to a few gatherings this year. Should I ditch my power steering?
If so, do I just unhook the hoses or what?
-J
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1987 Formula 350, headman hedders, Accel supercoil, cap, rotor.
MAF screens removed. 160 degree stat and manual fan switch.
Best ET: 14.745@91.317mph-Stock
Best ET: 14.418@95.51 mph-Modded
Ridiculed Founder of the Traction Impaired Crew
If so, do I just unhook the hoses or what?
-J
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1987 Formula 350, headman hedders, Accel supercoil, cap, rotor.
MAF screens removed. 160 degree stat and manual fan switch.
Best ET: 14.745@91.317mph-Stock
Best ET: 14.418@95.51 mph-Modded
Ridiculed Founder of the Traction Impaired Crew
Senior Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 931
Likes: 0
From: Mpls, MN USA
Car: 88 Camaro
Engine: 427 BBC
Transmission: T400
Put in a manual box from an 85-90 s10 (and some s15's). Use the Camaro pitman arm. Good for around 20-25lbs.
Miles
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88 427 Camaro
12.18 @ 113mph 1.75 60ft
http://www.geocities.com/mek88427
Miles
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88 427 Camaro
12.18 @ 113mph 1.75 60ft
http://www.geocities.com/mek88427
power steering takes like 2hp to run(according to an article i read in CHP a while back) and power brakes... er i'd keep them. if you want to put your car on a diet, just go for fiberglass body parts(if not already that) and lighter weight control arms and other suspension mods. if its strictly a strip car... then take out all the interior carpet, all the sound baffling under teh carpet, seats(minus drivesr of course), lighter wheels(u'd be suprised how much that will help) and tires, take the supports behind the bumpers out(if thats legal in drag racing), use aluminum engine parts, if you can think of more, then more power too you
What your doing sounds a lot like my plan and I did remove my power steering. I have skinny tires up front (165R15) so while I can't turn the steering wheel with one finger anymore, it's not hard by any means. I say go for it if you want to be original. I also like how it cleans up the engine bay:
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The '82Z
Hugger Orange
383 4 bolt main
3000 lbs
Bad cornering
NOS Sportsman Fogged
10 bolt braker
Coming to a street near you in the spring...
The car's website
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The '82Z
Hugger Orange
383 4 bolt main
3000 lbs
Bad cornering
NOS Sportsman Fogged
10 bolt braker
Coming to a street near you in the spring...
The car's website
Moderator

Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,262
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
Oooh. I like the low mounted alt on the left side. I had mine low mounted on the right. and the water pump drive on the left. I'm not sure where things will be with the BBC.
Don't you just love that firewall and how the accell coil fits
I almost cut the lip off my firewall to pull the cap off. I finally mounted an external coil where the hearter was and used the special HEI cap for external coils.
As for the power steering, it's not the HP loss so much as the weight saving. The S10/S15 manual box is very light compaired to all the power steering components.
I still plan on getting rid of my power brakes. I did a good explanation on how to do it in a post a couple of weeks ago. You'll have to search the archive to find it. It shouldn't be too hard of a swap but the new engine is my priority right now.
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Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season
Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car
91 454SS daily driver
95 Homebuilt Harley
Don't you just love that firewall and how the accell coil fits
I almost cut the lip off my firewall to pull the cap off. I finally mounted an external coil where the hearter was and used the special HEI cap for external coils.As for the power steering, it's not the HP loss so much as the weight saving. The S10/S15 manual box is very light compaired to all the power steering components.
I still plan on getting rid of my power brakes. I did a good explanation on how to do it in a post a couple of weeks ago. You'll have to search the archive to find it. It shouldn't be too hard of a swap but the new engine is my priority right now.
------------------
Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season
Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car
91 454SS daily driver
95 Homebuilt Harley
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