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Timing Cover Install Question

Old Nov 29, 2000 | 11:09 AM
  #1  
Joseph Andres's Avatar
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From: NJ, USA
Car: 1991 GTA Convertible
Engine: 350
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 3.73
Timing Cover Install Question

This is an easy one. Do you have to drop the oil pan to install a new timing cover? I removed the old timing cover with out dropping the pan. I bent the sh*t out of it though. This is for cars (V-8) with the one peice oil pan gasket. I'm trying to save the job on doing a pan gasket because I have to remove the oil cooler, fly wheel cover, and starter to do this and I don't want this to be a P.I.T.A.
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Old Nov 29, 2000 | 11:21 AM
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Paul Riccioli Jr's Avatar
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From: Bound Brook, NJ USA
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: 383
Transmission: 700R4
I didn't drop mine when I replaced my timing chain. I bent the cover back how it was and used the oil pan gasket insert that was included in my kit. You cut out the old front part of the oil pan gasket and insert this piece in it's place. Use a lot of silicone!! I have also heard that you can trim the lip of the timing cover to help it fit back in a little better. Mine hasn't leaked yet and I did this three years ago. Good luck.


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Old Nov 29, 2000 | 02:40 PM
  #3  
JakeJr's Avatar
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From: Kempner,TX,
Car: 1996 Vette / 1992 GSX1100F Suzuki
Engine: 1996 Corvette Coupe 388 LT1 (+.060)
Transmission: Auto
Axle/Gears: 3.07
I had mine apart a couple of weeks ago when I advanced my ZZ9 6 degrees and, yes, I unbolted the oil pan in order to get the timing chaing cover to fit properly.

I first considered cutting the one piece pan gasket and using silicone, but finally decided that the few minutes I'd save doing that way couldn't be justified considering the oil leak that might result.

I don't know how the underside of your car is arranged, but I was able to get to all the pan bolts on my 86 Vette by merely laying on my back with a long extension. Pan didn't have to come all the way off, only to drop down just enough to allow the timing chain cover to be installed.

Pay me now or pay me later. Sometimes you've gotta bite the bullet.

Just my thoughts.

Jake

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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9

[This message has been edited by JakeJr (edited November 29, 2000).]
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Old Nov 29, 2000 | 07:42 PM
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i did mine by lowering a few bolts on the pan and used alot of silicone on the font of the pan, the front doesnot leak but the rear of th epan does now, dont know why but i think i disturbed it playing with the oilpan (original gasket) id say do it once and do it the rite way (drop the pan) but good luck to you either way

-Stell

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1988 IROC 305TPI MINT!!
Mods= Accell SuperCoil, MSD 6A, Ported Plenum, No MAF Screans , K & N, 160 Thermostat+ Temp Switch, Relocated MAT, Cold Air
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Old Nov 29, 2000 | 07:45 PM
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I'll add my vote for loosening the pan bolts. You don't have to remove the pan, but at least drop the front section to insure a good seal.

Make sure your silicone sealant is sensor safe, and use lots. Just trim the excess when it has cured.

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