Do I have to pull the heads to put in screw in studs?
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Supreme Member
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Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 3,968
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
Do I have to pull the heads to put in screw in studs?
I dont really want to remove the heads just for this.
Well unles you got an efficient way to keep all the metal shavings from going into the lifter valley.. then yeah it's possible. I wouldnt take the risk though... lol
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92 Z28 L98 350
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Ported and polished heads, ported stock TPI base, ported plenum, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam (lift .495/.502 duration 218/224 lobe separation 110), Edelbrock TES headers, LT4 valve springs, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback with LT1 style tips, MSD coil & wires.
Best ET 13.5@105 mph
"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)
http://www.truspeed.org/Members/Chev...dmondIndre.htm
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92 Z28 L98 350
---------------
Ported and polished heads, ported stock TPI base, ported plenum, Comp Cams XR270HR-10 cam (lift .495/.502 duration 218/224 lobe separation 110), Edelbrock TES headers, LT4 valve springs, Crane AFPR, Flowmaster catback with LT1 style tips, MSD coil & wires.
Best ET 13.5@105 mph
"Take that auto, drop it in first, hold the brakes, stomp the gas and grin from ear to ear! :-)
http://www.truspeed.org/Members/Chev...dmondIndre.htm
Originally posted by Mkos1980:
I dont really want to remove the heads just for this.
I dont really want to remove the heads just for this.
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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."
[This message has been edited by Pat Hall (edited November 30, 2000).]
if all you had to do was pull the old studs and tap for the new ones i'd say yeah go for it, tape all the opening off and use some magnets to catch the chips. it's a little more involved than that so unless you have differant set up on your studs than the ones i've used (arp) you have to pull the heads.
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-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-
1st & 3rd
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-=ICON MOTORSPORTS=-
1st & 3rd
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Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 17,262
Likes: 168
From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
That's also assuming you'll be using the poor man's screw-in replacement stud. It's designed to replace a stripped stock stud by simply tapping the hole and screwing it in.
If you want proper screw-in studs (ie: ARP) that have a hex base, you need to have the stock stud boss machined off so the new studs have a seat to sit against.
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Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season
Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car
91 454SS daily driver
95 Homebuilt Harley
If you want proper screw-in studs (ie: ARP) that have a hex base, you need to have the stock stud boss machined off so the new studs have a seat to sit against.
------------------
Stephen's racing page
87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
454 Big Block buildup now in progress for the 2001 racing season
Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Best 60 foot: 1.662
Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association
87 IROC bracket car
91 454SS daily driver
95 Homebuilt Harley
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