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Do I have to pull the heads to put in screw in studs?

Old Nov 30, 2000 | 01:48 PM
  #1  
Mkos1980's Avatar
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
Do I have to pull the heads to put in screw in studs?

I dont really want to remove the heads just for this.
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Old Nov 30, 2000 | 02:47 PM
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Well unles you got an efficient way to keep all the metal shavings from going into the lifter valley.. then yeah it's possible. I wouldnt take the risk though... lol

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92 Z28 L98 350
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Old Nov 30, 2000 | 02:49 PM
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From: Roy,UT USA
Originally posted by Mkos1980:
I dont really want to remove the heads just for this.
You pretty much have to remove the heads to install screw in studs due to all the metal shavings you get from the machine work and tapping of the holes. Personally, I wouldn't risk trying it with the heads still on the engine. Hehe, looks like Blade beat me to the punchline by like two minutes.

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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."

[This message has been edited by Pat Hall (edited November 30, 2000).]
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Old Nov 30, 2000 | 04:36 PM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
if all you had to do was pull the old studs and tap for the new ones i'd say yeah go for it, tape all the opening off and use some magnets to catch the chips. it's a little more involved than that so unless you have differant set up on your studs than the ones i've used (arp) you have to pull the heads.

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Old Nov 30, 2000 | 07:54 PM
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From: 51°N 114°W, 3500'
Car: 87 IROC L98
Engine: 588 Alcohol BBC
Transmission: Powerglide
Axle/Gears: Ford 9"/31 spline spool/4.86
That's also assuming you'll be using the poor man's screw-in replacement stud. It's designed to replace a stripped stock stud by simply tapping the hole and screwing it in.

If you want proper screw-in studs (ie: ARP) that have a hex base, you need to have the stock stud boss machined off so the new studs have a seat to sit against.

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