valve lash
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Joined: Mar 2003
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Car: 1986 Trans Am
Engine: built 305
Transmission: 700r-4 shift kit
valve lash
dose any one know how to set valve lash to 0. do you tighten till the pushrod dosent move under finger pressure or what. any help would be appriciated.
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Joined: Jan 2003
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From: West Des Moines, IA
Car: 2008.5 Mazdaspeed 3 GT
Engine: 2.3 DISI Turbo
Transmission: 6 speed MT
0 lash is usually accomplished by tightening the rocker until no more "up and down" movement can be felt on the push rod. Most companies then add another 1/4 to 1/2 turn past 0 lash if memory serves. It depends on which lifters you have...
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 744
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From: England UK
Car: 85 Z28
Engine: LG4 modified
Transmission: 700R4
Some people find it easiest to set the lash with the engine running. Slacken until clicking is heard, and then tighten the rocker until the clicking goes away.
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Joined: Jul 2003
Posts: 509
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From: Detroit, MI, USA
Car: '82 Trans Am
Engine: Blown 540 BBC
Transmission: TH475
Axle/Gears: Dana 60, 4.10 w/spool
Assuming lifters are full of oil (engine has ran):
1: Engine @ operating temp.
2: Given cylinder is @ TDC on compression stroke.
3: Loosen rocker arm adjusting nuts about 2 turns on given cyl.
4: Tighten adjusting nut on one of the rocker arms, while spinning pushrod back and forth.
5: When the pushrod suddenly gets hard to spin (or won't spin), stop turning the nut - you're at zero lash. With most hydraulic lifters, you'll want to turn the adjusting nut an additional 1/2 to 1 full turn past zero lash. This is to center the plunger in the lifter body.
6: Repeat steps 4 through 5 on the other rocker arm on this cylinder.
7: Repeat steps 2 through 6 on remaining cylinders.
If engine has new lifters (dry), it is a little harder to determine zero lash. If this is the case, you'll have to verify that the plunger in the lifter that you just adjusted is against the retaining clip to assure that you're really at zero lash. The reason is, you'll still be able to spin the pushrod past zero lash with the dry lifters, and keep turning the nut until you bottom out the plunger in the lifter body (not good). You shoud be able to push down the rocker arm/pushrod a small amount into the lifter when adjusted correctly, but the pushrod should not be loose. Run the engine for a 1/2 hour or so, then perform the first procedure.
1: Engine @ operating temp.
2: Given cylinder is @ TDC on compression stroke.
3: Loosen rocker arm adjusting nuts about 2 turns on given cyl.
4: Tighten adjusting nut on one of the rocker arms, while spinning pushrod back and forth.
5: When the pushrod suddenly gets hard to spin (or won't spin), stop turning the nut - you're at zero lash. With most hydraulic lifters, you'll want to turn the adjusting nut an additional 1/2 to 1 full turn past zero lash. This is to center the plunger in the lifter body.
6: Repeat steps 4 through 5 on the other rocker arm on this cylinder.
7: Repeat steps 2 through 6 on remaining cylinders.
If engine has new lifters (dry), it is a little harder to determine zero lash. If this is the case, you'll have to verify that the plunger in the lifter that you just adjusted is against the retaining clip to assure that you're really at zero lash. The reason is, you'll still be able to spin the pushrod past zero lash with the dry lifters, and keep turning the nut until you bottom out the plunger in the lifter body (not good). You shoud be able to push down the rocker arm/pushrod a small amount into the lifter when adjusted correctly, but the pushrod should not be loose. Run the engine for a 1/2 hour or so, then perform the first procedure.
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