I have been putting together a parts list for a rebuild. Because I'm such a noob I was wondering if I am making and big mistakes yet. "Other than rebuilding a 305 and not a 350"

Stock 1986 305 LG4 VIN-H 4BBL

Parts I have.
Comp Cams 268/268 hydraulic, High Energy, camshaft.
Comp Cams double roller, Magnum timing set.
Edelbrock Performer non-egr intake.

Parts not purchased.
Comp Cams High Energy, hydraulic, lifter set.
Comp Cams 3/8 in. stud, 1.60 ratio, Magnum roller tip rockers .
Summit high volume oil pump with a matched pickup.

Any obvious problems?
I look fwd to beging you all for help

 

You will not like that cam in a 305. Your car will have no leave whatsoever. Sell that cam to somebody that has a motor that can use it, and get yourself a XE262. Get the cam & lifter set together, it's cheaper that way. Get a set of 981 valve springs and retainers and keepers while you're at it: you'll need them.

You don't need a high-volume pump. In fact, the high volume pump will be a greater liability than an asset. Instead, get a regular Melling M-55, a Melling IS-55E drive shaft, a Melling 55-S screen, and a Mr Gasket 26 pressure relief spring. This will give you a pump that will cruise at about 55-60 psi, idle at around 30-35, and will use no more power (distributor gear wear) than a stock one; for about half the price of a "Z28" pump.

The rest looks OK so far.

 

Thanks a lot. I wish I had posted before getting that cam! Will I need to mill out the rod holes to use the 1.6 rockers? and were would I find that oil pump and parts?

 

also plan on using slp single cat headers.

 

Yes, you probably will need to enlarge the holes.

You can get the Melling parts at Auto Zone; the Mr G spring from your local speed shop, or Summit or Jeg's.

When you get the headers, get an adapter for some other exhaust besides LG4, so you don't preserve the 2¼" Y-pipe bottleneck.

 

Check out the Proform aluminum roller rockers in Jegs. They have 1.6's for 3/8 stud and for about the same price 149.99. I have the self aligning versions and a set of the magnum's. THe magnum's are nice but still use a fulcrum. Full roller is the way to go for the same money.

 

I personally would not put cheap aluminum rockers in an engine I have to drive every day for years. But that's just me; I hate working on my car just because it's broken.

Of course, if it's race only, then it's a different matter.

 

I should have stated what I want out of the car. I drive it about 3-4 times a week in the summer on nice days. I live in Rhode Island, so nice days are few and far between. The engine has 140K on it and had a bad overheat this summer. (VERY BAD) in fact I beleve that if I wasn't using Mobil #1 in it, I would have lost the engine.

anyway, I'm not looking to race. Just want a good working engine with more power than it was stock, I don't want to loose to much $ at the pumps, and I dont want to have to go back into the engine to fiddle/change anything.

thanks for the help

 

if the roller rockers arn't self-aligning you'll need guideplates and head work to get them installed..

 

AND hardened pushrods.

 

The easiest way to get them to fit with the 86 heads is to use a "Louis tool", which elongates the push rod holes toward the rocker stud. If you do that, you don't need guide plates, you don't use self-aligning rockers, and you don't need special push rods.

 

someone offered me a set of the comp cam 1.6 roller tip rockers & studs for $90 with under 500miles on them. He said he took them out to go with the full rollers and went from 3/8 to 7/16 on the stud.

I haven't looked at them yet but It sounds good to me.

will the 1.6 be enough improvment over the 1.52 to make it worth machining the holes?

 

IMO, if you are gonna be driving this car everyday (I hope so with a 305) I'd recommend the XE254 4x4 cam. They're designed for lower RPM grunt for trucks, which is something the 305 lacks.

This would make even more sense if you're running stock heads.

 

I could be wrong but I think the reason behind the cam I picked (comp cam 268) was that it was ECM compatable. I rebuilt the cc carb and that end of thing seems to be working well. so I figured I would keep the ECM working.

 

That particular cam would not be computer compatible in a 350, let alone a 305. I know; I've had a couple of them over the years. It's an old design cam, that was good in its day, but like so many other things, has been supplanted.

Send it back, trade it for something more computer-friendly. The XE256 also is known to work well in stock-geared LG4s that are only lightly modded other than the cam.

 

O.K. I'm going to do what most don't and listen

update on parts list.

Parts I have.
Comp Cams 268/268 hydraulic, High Energy, camshaft. "sending back"
Comp Cams double roller, Magnum timing set.
Edelbrock Performer non-egr intake.

Parts not purchased.
Comp Cams Extreme Energy 256 "KIT" to keep ECM working
Comp Cams High Energy, hydraulic, lifter set "no longer needed"
Comp Cams 3/8 in. stud, 1.60 ratio, Magnum roller tip rockers .
Summit high volume oil pump with a matched pickup. "no longer needed"
Melling M-55 oil pump, shaft, screen and Mr G spring.
SLP single cat Headers "for what engine should these be?"

looking better?

 

I think you should use the comp cams 268H and get a 350 to go along with it, there is no replacement for displacement.

 

It's tough to find a 350 in Rhode Island. I spent my entire summer looking for a 87+ (roller block) 350 with all the rotating assy parts. Couldn't find a single one.
The only people that had them (junkyards) either didn't sell them to private people, or wanted over 2 grand for an unrebuilt taxi motor.
Of course, I have zero connections in R.I., and had to find one the hard way.

 

350camaro what year? 1981, go back to your 2nd gen forum and leave me along...