To re-bolt stock bottom end or stay the way it is
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From: Macedonia ,OH
Car: Formula
Engine: 6.0 LSX
Transmission: 4L60E
Axle/Gears: 9 Bolt 3:27
To re-bolt stock bottom end or stay the way it is
Got 81K on the stock L98 Shortblock and was wondering if I should not touch it or upgrade to new bolts like main studs and rod bolts. New bearings maybe? "new stroker crank" ?
are you talking rebuild or just adding the parts and not rebuild? at any rate i wouldn't do any of what you listed with out a complete tear down and inspection and that pretty much leads to a rebuild
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From: northeast ohio
Car: 2000 astro
Engine: 4.3
Transmission: A4
Axle/Gears: 7.5 with 3.42 gears
obviously once we pull the engine, we're going to be curious as to how the bearings look.
i figure since we're already pulling the engine, what's it going to hurt to rebuild it for more power?
i figure since we're already pulling the engine, what's it going to hurt to rebuild it for more power?
little advice for you matt, when you get it stripped to the short block mark everything by location. buy a set of number stamps. think about how you stamp it so you can tell by looking at the number what is forward, right or left. example i always stamp rods standing at the back or the engine and stamp so i can read the number from the back. that way if i have a rod only i know the front from back without any looking or thinking
Last edited by ede; Oct 26, 2003 at 06:26 AM.
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From: Chander, Arizona USA
Car: 2006 Silverado 1500
Engine: 5.3L
Transmission: 4L60E
good time for a stroker or even just longer rods and lighter pistons. if you're just checking the bearings, i'd say just replace the bearings and install main studs.
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From: Loveland, OH, US
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If this is the engine with the piston issues, then it's time for a rebuild. Those pistons need to be replaced which requires tearing the motor down, and sending the rods to a machine shop.
Get the rod bolts replaced while they're working on them. They'll have to "recondition" the rods, because the act of removing and re-installing the bolts distorts the rod bore. But, rod bolts are the number one cause of failure, so that's the one best thing to upgrade in the short block.
New main bolts are a good idea; studs are not necessary, usually.
If the bores still have cross-hatch visible all the way up and down, or at least if there's less than about .003" of wear in the bore right at the top, you can possibly get away with new pistons in the old bores, by just honing them. That's kind of risky though, so you probably would want to get it bored since you're having to buy pistons anyway.
Beyond that, what plans do you have for this engine? What kind of use will it see? (what RPMs, what induction, etc.) All of that will determine what level of prep the short block needs and what is just a waste of money.
Get the rod bolts replaced while they're working on them. They'll have to "recondition" the rods, because the act of removing and re-installing the bolts distorts the rod bore. But, rod bolts are the number one cause of failure, so that's the one best thing to upgrade in the short block.
New main bolts are a good idea; studs are not necessary, usually.
If the bores still have cross-hatch visible all the way up and down, or at least if there's less than about .003" of wear in the bore right at the top, you can possibly get away with new pistons in the old bores, by just honing them. That's kind of risky though, so you probably would want to get it bored since you're having to buy pistons anyway.
Beyond that, what plans do you have for this engine? What kind of use will it see? (what RPMs, what induction, etc.) All of that will determine what level of prep the short block needs and what is just a waste of money.
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From: Albuquerque, NM
Car: 1966 El Camino Custom
Engine: 350
Transmission: 200R4
Axle/Gears: 3:73 12 bolt with Brute Strength
Main Studs
If you go the main stud route, it is highly recommended that you line hone. Just a little FYI.
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