A while back I posted for suggestions on how to remove a failed lifter that wouldn't come out the top of the bore. I found a solution that didn't require removing the engine to put in the ol memory banks.

I cut a piece of 1 1/2" PVC conduit to length to protect the cam bearings, duct taped a small but powerful magnet on the end of a piece of 1/2" PVC pipe, lowered the lifter out the bottom of the bore with a weak magnet. Grabbed it with the more powerful magnet and pulled it through the large diameter PVC. Worked great and saved me from having to R&R the engine.

Hope nobody has to use it but if you do this can save a few hours compared to an engine tear-down.

Now to flush the metal shavings left in the engine by the lifter & cam?

Anyone want to buy a slightly (ab)used H.O.T. cam & lifters, very cheap!?

 

Out of raw animal curiosity...

What valve springs and rockers did you use with this?

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

The springs were the springs that come in the H.O.T. cam kit, and Crower stainless rollers. In retrospect I found that the new ZZ4 motors have a new style lifter that has a heaver spring and better oiling for higher RPM use. The older lifters weren't designed for the RPM capabilities of the H.O.T. cam.

 

Interesting...

You're the 3rd person in the last couple of weeks to experience valve train destruction in conjunction with that kit. In every case, the failure was consistent with using valve springs of inadequate lift capability.

I could be wrong, but if I was you, I believe I would change those springs before I ruined another valve train. Unfortunately that probably means you'll have to get your spring pockets machined to accept larger springs. I personally have a hard time believing that there's any difference in the RPM capabilities of the lifters, within the context of a street motor. In particular, roller rockers all require less oil than ball-pivot ones. There basically is no oiling issue with them in conjunction with a stock lifter designed for ball-pivot arms, like the GM ones are. I think the problem is that the valve springs are too close to coil bind and are doing what inadequate valve springs always do at high RPM: they are wiping out the rest of the valve train.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."

 

In my case I have to take credit for the failure. I think I adjusted the valves incorrectly to begin with. (spelled "loose") That probably slapped the lifter into submission.

I followed a very simplified adjustment sequence from a repair manual that got me into trouble. Rather than rotate the motor and adjust each lifter I rotated the motor once and adjusted half of the lifters each time. Sounded logical at the time and it probably works for stock valve train.

Embarrasing considering my motto is "why is it people never have time to do it right but always have time to do it over."