Bears are shot in new motor.
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Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 491
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From: Hockessin, Delaware
Car: Red 91 RS Camaro
Engine: LO3 with Comp Cam
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen rear
Bears are shot in new motor.
Theres what the rod bears are like in my rebuilt engine:
The upper rod bearing is wriped to the copper.
What now? replace with new bearings and pray!
Heres my full post on what I thought was the problem, untill now.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...95#post1543495
The upper rod bearing is wriped to the copper.
What now? replace with new bearings and pray!
Heres my full post on what I thought was the problem, untill now.
https://www.thirdgen.org/techbb2/sho...95#post1543495
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
If the bearings look like that, then the crank is wiped too. Putting in new bearings is a waste of time and money. For that matter, since those bearings were destroyed by debris, crank-kitting the motor will be a waste of time too, because whatever metal shavings are all in the engine that wiped it out, are still there, and now there's even more new fresh ones..
The motor needs to come apart, and the source of the debris found, and every oil passage MOST ESPECIALLY the ones behind the cam bearings needs to be cleaned with a wire brush. I'd suggest that you take the block to the machine shop; stand there and watch them take the cam bearings and ALL of the oil passage plugs out; and have them vat it. DO NOT take a chance on settling for letting them vat it with the bearings and plugs still in it, personally witness their removal BEFORE the block goes in the tank. Then go get it back with no plugs or cam bearings in it, take it to the car wash, and clean the oil passages with rifle brushes and diesel fuel, and the grooves behind the cam bearings with a small wire brush about the size of a toothbrush and diesel fuel, then car wash the hell out of every single hole you can find. Then take it back to the machine shop and have them put the cam bearings in it. You can put the plugs in yourself. Don't forget the ½" one that goes in the vertical passage under the rear main cap. Then crank-kit it, use new rings, and replace the valve springs.
The single most important thing to do is to make sure your new build is debris-free. That means find the source of the debris, and correct it; and be certain that all the metal that's been shed in the motor gets removed. Instinct tells me you'll find wiped cam lobes when you tear it down; that would be from the stock valve springs, which will coil-bind at the lift you get with that cam, and that's why your motor is trashed.
Show us cam pics.
The motor needs to come apart, and the source of the debris found, and every oil passage MOST ESPECIALLY the ones behind the cam bearings needs to be cleaned with a wire brush. I'd suggest that you take the block to the machine shop; stand there and watch them take the cam bearings and ALL of the oil passage plugs out; and have them vat it. DO NOT take a chance on settling for letting them vat it with the bearings and plugs still in it, personally witness their removal BEFORE the block goes in the tank. Then go get it back with no plugs or cam bearings in it, take it to the car wash, and clean the oil passages with rifle brushes and diesel fuel, and the grooves behind the cam bearings with a small wire brush about the size of a toothbrush and diesel fuel, then car wash the hell out of every single hole you can find. Then take it back to the machine shop and have them put the cam bearings in it. You can put the plugs in yourself. Don't forget the ½" one that goes in the vertical passage under the rear main cap. Then crank-kit it, use new rings, and replace the valve springs.
The single most important thing to do is to make sure your new build is debris-free. That means find the source of the debris, and correct it; and be certain that all the metal that's been shed in the motor gets removed. Instinct tells me you'll find wiped cam lobes when you tear it down; that would be from the stock valve springs, which will coil-bind at the lift you get with that cam, and that's why your motor is trashed.
Show us cam pics.
Last edited by RB83L69; Nov 1, 2003 at 02:37 PM.
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Hockessin, Delaware
Car: Red 91 RS Camaro
Engine: LO3 with Comp Cam
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen rear
Everything was checked. I bought a new crank, rods, pistons, rings, and bearings in a kit from PAW. All the clearances came out just fine.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Buying new parts, even from PAW, doesn't guarantee a debris-free block. Right now that's the main thing you should do, is tear the block down, and clean it with certainty.
How's your cam? Is that where the debris came from?
How's your cam? Is that where the debris came from?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Hockessin, Delaware
Car: Red 91 RS Camaro
Engine: LO3 with Comp Cam
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen rear
Well I give it to a shop and expect all that to be done. Its my first engine rebuild. How was I'm supposed to know they left it a mess inside.
Last edited by iggy1991; Nov 3, 2003 at 06:19 PM.
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Yeah, that sux.... happened to me once too, fortunately not my first.... all you can do now, is make sure it doesn't happen again. The more you take your destiny into your own hands, the less you have to depend on other people not to screw up.
How's the cam?
How's the cam?
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jun 2002
Posts: 491
Likes: 1
From: Hockessin, Delaware
Car: Red 91 RS Camaro
Engine: LO3 with Comp Cam
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 4th gen rear
Ugg...thats all I can do is prevent it from happening again. Learn from experiences, huh. This one sucks.
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