damnit as i was driving around today in the rain... wipers on, headlights on, stereo w/amp on, etc, i honked the horn and it sounded funny...i looked at the voltmeter 8!!!!!! so i quickly drove to work (kragen auto parts) and tested the OPTIMA RED TOP battery and it said "Bad Cell - Replace Battery" well i tried to charge it anyways and i got it up to a 1000 cca and put her back in. she started right up this time...and i tested the alternator...replaced 1 year ago (higher amperage) it says "not receiving diode pulse" or something to that effect. my alt is bad??? so i look up alts for my car and it doesnt list anything above 105....where can i get a 140 or something to handle my amps and 15" subs. thanks so much guys

 

BB,

You can get a high current stator/rectifier kit for your alternator, or adapt a higher output alternator to your application. The 140A kits can cost from $40.00 to around $100.00 or more, and include a double-wound stator and heavier rectifier bridge and heat sink.

A 105A will only output 105A at peak output, not at idle speeds. Idle output might be 25% of peak at best. Underdrive sheaves kill that, so don't even think of that idea.

The only alternators I've seen that have significant output at idle speeds are some heavy DelcoTrons, Bosch, and Leece-Neville units for large trucks. You'll typcally find these on large trucks, ambulances, and fire trucks that might draw a few hundred amps constantly to power auxilliary equipment. It takes roughly the equivalent of a Honda V-6 to run one of these units, and some LaFrance trucks are now optioned with a 4.3L Vortec V-6 for auxilliary power. That should run your audio equipment just fine.

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Later,
Vader
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thanks vader...so i guess the autolite alternator is out of the question. i dont have another car so i dont know what to do. ahhhh.
any more help on this one guys?
what you think the min amperage i should get for a 1000 watt+ system? or u guys think 105 will be ok? or will my headlights dim every time the bass hits?

[This message has been edited by Black Beauty (edited December 14, 2000).]

 

ttt....need help fast guys....cmon pleeeeeeeeez

 

well, first off, 92-95 regals with 3.8SC had 145 amp, as well as most caddys of the same years. so you can buy one of those, and then change the front of the housing to make it fit your brackets. as far as your problem, sounds as if the battery got killed by the alterator. alternators "sustain" the battery while running. if you kill the alt, you quickly terminate the battery, and vice versa
good luck
mike

 

Well, two more options (expensive ones) are to get a stinger alterntor, or a pheonix gold.

same people how make the car audio goods. not sure how much they put out (ive heard 140-240 amps, with a really high output at idle)

i don't run one myself (yet) but from what i was told, stinger has some company make them, and charges a bit less than pheonic gold, who makes them themselves. somethign like 550 bucks. expensive, but i bet it owuld work.

 

Look in Summit Racing's catalog. I've seen several high output alternators in their catalog for varying prices. In fact, I just looked them up, and they have a 140 amp upgrade kit for $100.00. They also have a 200 amp alternator for 88-98 GM trucks, which should fit our cars as well. It lists for $379.95.



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