Not my car, but a friends camaro. What part in the distributor could cause a coil to go bad? The plugs and wires are good but I think something has caused two coils to go bad. The original went out about a month ago and the replacement just went. Either I got a dud coil that didn't last long or something in the distributor is causing the coil to go bad.

The module is new too. Cap and rotor are fine.

------------------
88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
Eats LS1's with a 2.73 open rear and 2 1/4 stock catback

My Formula

[This message has been edited by Birmass (edited December 17, 2000).]

 

BM,

Did the primary or secondary windings fail? If the primary failed, you may have had a weak coil or failing HEI module. If the secondary winding failed, you have excessive plug gaps, poor conductivity of the coil/plug wires, or the distributor might be one tooth off optimal position for your timing, causing excessive voltage necessary to bridge the gap to the correct plug terminal.

Keeping the ignition key in the "ON" position for extended periods without the engine running can also fry a coil primary in short order. If you're listening to the radio while working on the car, there is an "ACCESSORY" position just for that purpose.

------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now"
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0

 

Thanks Vader. The coil seems to test fine, and it's really trying to start, but it won't. It did this a few weeks ago, like I said, and replacing the coil cured the problem. The gaps are right and the wires are in good shape. Maybe we just got a dud coil. Napa sucks. I'll try another coil and see how long it lasts.

 

I don't know who would ever have bought such a POS lol

Birmass - could having the ignition in the on position to check codes effect frying the coil, as Vader said? I doubt it being that the problem arose before checking the codes.

Nevermind, I am an idiot