Started inspecting an LG4 out of an '85 TA and found X rods. Did they come with X rods?

 

Not usually; but the L69 short block did. So that's probably what's in there. Somebody must have swapped short blocks or engines or something at some time in the car's life.

 

The VIN says it is LG4 and matches the block numbers.

The rod bearings look factory but not sure. They are stamped "0005 OS"

The pistons are stock but have oil rings unlike any I have seen before. They are not the usual 'S' pattern design.

 

Well sometimes when supplies are low, they have to use alternate parts. That's probably the case here.

 

Are 305 X rods lighter like other 305 rods?

I guess it would make sense they are in there if the only longblock differences in '85 is the camshaft.

 

Don't think they are any lighter, but they are quite a bit stronger than typical rods.

 

Would someone please give me an education in English about X Rods. I am building a 400 for TORQUE, want the longer rods, don't know sqwat about which is best. I have a chance to buy some X rods which are already modified for the 400 clearance problems. the motor is destined to be run with a 700 R 4 in Drive so 10,000 RPM is not required. I think they shift at 5500. Considering I can buy aftermarket rods new on Ebay for about 160$, ?????

 

"X" means they have an "X" on them. They're a little bit better metal, with a littlle bit extra in the area where the beam meets the big end.

If the rods have been "modded", I would not run them.

That means, ground on; and worse yet, the BOLT has been ground on.

I would throw them in the trash if somebody gave them to me. I might even shoot them for littering on my property, just because I'm such a jerk.

Pass on it. Get the right rods. Or at least, un-sodomized ones, and grind the block, as should be done. Regardless of what's "easier", it always makes better sense to grind on a stationary part for clearance, than a moving one.

It's not hard to see why stock rods have clearance problems in a 400, compared to aftermarket ones.

The "stock" rod in the pic happens to be a "X" rod BTW.

 

Yeah, that's true, but you're comparing them to a set of aftermarket rods that use capscrews and not traditional rod bolts with nuts on the end. Those aftermarket rods DO open up a ton of clearance in the exact area you usually have clearance problems with some cam lobes in a long-stroke small block.

You'll notice those rods will also make your clearance on the other end of the rod where it comes close to the pan rail TIGHTER due to the location of the capscrew head vs. a stock rod bolt/nut setup. They also cost quite a bit, too.

While I agree that grinding on a moving part is not the preferred place to grind on, the modification that's required to clear the cam in a 400 (3.75" stroke) on a stock rod is typically very modest and in a non-critical area unless you take too much off. Done a few sets of stock rods for 383s in my garage on a bench grinder by eye and haven't had one blow up yet.

 

In my opinion by the time you take the old piston off, put good bolts in a stock rod, and have them resized, you are already into aftermarket rod $. "X" rods or not. I have quite a pile of stock rods around for this reason. Also, you can opt for floating pins, which turns out to be a whole lot cheaper than paying to get your new pistons pressed on.