http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eB...tem=2446779329

"Want to build your own stroker Chevy... this is your crank!!! This auction is for a brand new Nodular Iron 383 (3.750") Stroker Crank. This unit is new and hasn't been turned .010/.010 like some cranks you find... this is new STD/STD. This crank will fit all 350 engines (making it a 383 with 5.700" or 6.000" rod and 4.030 pistons) with two piece rear seal. Stock 350 main journal (2.4490") and rod (2.1000) so you can use stock 350 Bearings!! "

Am I reading this right? I can put this crank into my GTA and I will have a 383? I always thought I had to have some machine work done?!?

Thanks
Brian

 

You have to clearance the block oil pan rails, if you want to call that "machining".

That's only the crank. You need pistons as well. Might as well get the bearings and gaskets, and if you want it balanced, the rods. It's externally balanced, so you need to add the 400-type damper and flexplate/flywheel.

And, it's 2-piece rear main seal. You've got 1-piece. The adapter costs another $100. And, 1-piece RMS 3.75" cranks can be had internally-balanced.

Forget that eBay siren. Get a kit, save yourself time, money, mis-matched parts, and hassle if you want a 383.

 

I had no intention of buying that. I just always thought you had to have a shop make some room for a bigger crank.

So If I buy a 383 kit I can put in the crank, rods, pistons, and all the other goodies without ever taking my block to a shop? Sweet.

Thanks, now I have something to add to my christmas list.

Brian

 

Only if your block is bored .030" over already.

If not, it'll be a 377.

And you need pistons made for the longer stroke. Just pressing the pins on the rods is reason enough to head for the shop (unless you buy the kit that way).

And the block has to be clearanced, as I already mentioned (which you can do yourself, if you're of such a mind).

And you may need a small-base-circle cam, or clearance the rod bolts.