Heated O2
Heated O2
Ok. I have a heated Oxygen sensor and I asked before where to hook it up, but I'm still stumped. I know I need a 12 volt source, but I'm scared to tap into anything for fear of frying something. Please tell me EXACTLY where to hook it up. I mean EXACTLY. Even what colors the wires may be. Thanks.
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88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
open 3.73's
2 1/4 stock catback
I love pissing those LS1's off
My Formula
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88 firebird formula
350 Vortec TBI
214int/224exh, .471int/.491exh
Edelbrock headers
SIX-speed
open 3.73's
2 1/4 stock catback
I love pissing those LS1's off

My Formula
Supreme Member


Joined: Jan 2000
Posts: 1,123
Likes: 0
From: jeff NY usa
Car: 86 Z28
Engine: 350
Transmission: W/C T-5
Axle/Gears: 9 BOLT 3.45 POSI
Okay there should be 2 wires that are the same colors and one that is diffrent, the one that is diffrent should go to the current o2 sensoe wire (ecm) then either of the next 2 should be grounded, then the klast has to go to a 12 volt soruce only when the key is on, look for one in your fuse box, I would suggest getting a 3 pack weather connector and runing the wires thought that first, so you can just disconect it instead undoing the wires when you want to change it. Aslo cut the old end off of the o2 sensor and hook that to the new one and then into the weather pack.what kind of sensor did you get?
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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.
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86Z28, GM 350, Jet perf Q-jet & chip Dual snorkel air cleaner, Edelbrock performer intake, Edelbrock headers, Edelbrock cat-back, Off road pipe, MSD 6AL, Accel Super Coil, Taylor Spiro-pro wires, Rapid fire plugs, Jet fan switch, World class t-5, Hurst Short Throw Shifter, Ram Flywheel, Center force dual friction clutch,Aluminum drive shaft, BW disc rear 3.45's & a posi, PBR calipers, Earls braided brake lines, Polygrapite bushings all the way around, poly tranny mount & torque arm mount, Hotchkis lower control arms & panhard rod, Rancho limiter straps, KYB struts & shocks, Gm Wonderbar, Edelbrock strut tower brace, SSM sub frame connectors, Jamex lowering springs, Carbon metallic brake pads, Crossed drilled rotors, Mobil 1 Tranny fluid & motor oil, GM syntheic rear end oil, K&N, Grant stering wheel, 1,200 watt system, Jet Black Paint, 91 Z28 rims, 92 wing, Tinted windows.
Birmass,
The fuel pump circuit shoudl be a safe place to connect the heater element. The ciruit is protected for about 25A and only operates when teh key is on (except for the short after-run of the fuel pump through the auxilliary oil pressure sensor). The power should be relatively clean. Connecting to the primary side of the ignition coil can introduce electrical "noise" in the oxygen sensor circuit, causing erroneous output to the ECM. The MAF power relay might also be a safe circuit, since it is protected by the same fuse as the fuel pump. Whichever one is easier to access should work.
Black Z makes an excellent point about the weatherpack connector, but you might want to get only a two-wire connector and retain the original sensor element connector if you can - just in case you ever want to change back to the standard sensor.
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Later,
Vader
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"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything I've said before..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
The fuel pump circuit shoudl be a safe place to connect the heater element. The ciruit is protected for about 25A and only operates when teh key is on (except for the short after-run of the fuel pump through the auxilliary oil pressure sensor). The power should be relatively clean. Connecting to the primary side of the ignition coil can introduce electrical "noise" in the oxygen sensor circuit, causing erroneous output to the ECM. The MAF power relay might also be a safe circuit, since it is protected by the same fuse as the fuel pump. Whichever one is easier to access should work.
Black Z makes an excellent point about the weatherpack connector, but you might want to get only a two-wire connector and retain the original sensor element connector if you can - just in case you ever want to change back to the standard sensor.
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Later,
Vader
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"I cannot take this any more... Saying everything I've said before..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
Thanks for the help guys!! I really appreciate it.
I got a sensor for a 93 corvette. So I need to run the hot wire through the firewall to the fuse box right? Then just splice into the output side of the fuel pump fuse? Thanks again.
I got a sensor for a 93 corvette. So I need to run the hot wire through the firewall to the fuse box right? Then just splice into the output side of the fuel pump fuse? Thanks again.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
You should be able to get your switched 12V from the ignition feed to the MAF or fuel pump relays. Make sure that the one you use is switched ignition, not battery; the fan for example uses battery. If you tie in there you won't have to run through the firewall.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
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