ATTN: RB83L69 (or others) - update on dist please read >>>
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Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 496
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From: Chicago, IL
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
ATTN: RB83L69 (or others) - update on dist please read >>>
Alright I didn't check to see if advancing the timing would make the engine smoother since I already had it advanced quite a bit when I installed it. So I just turned it back CCW a tooth and started her up. It ran worse than before, so I thought I'd move it CW 2 teeth but lost my place.
So starting over, I did it all correctly (so I thought) and still cannot get the car to idle on its own. This time I installed the dist with the flat part front to back like you said so there was room to advance the timing and that DID make it smoother, but I couldn't turn it far enough to see if it would abruptly die. The timing light I bought doesn't work or I'd check that. When I get a functional one, what exactly am I looking for? Thanks for your help, I wonder if my mechanic would like to walk me through this after hours for a cold 24 pk and a 20? That's about how sick I am of reinstallation after reinstallation of the dist, esp when I'm seemingly doing it "right." One other related question...the way the dist engages the oil pump shaft seems to indicate that when the dist is inserted correctly there's really only one way for the crossbar on the dist to slip into the oil pump slot. I use a floor jack bar and a light to turn the oil pump shaft approximately 30' to the right of center and it slips right down and the rotor points exactly where the #1 electrode is. I never had so much trouble with this procedure on my old 87 but this car is very puzzling. Thanks very much for all the help.
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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...
So starting over, I did it all correctly (so I thought) and still cannot get the car to idle on its own. This time I installed the dist with the flat part front to back like you said so there was room to advance the timing and that DID make it smoother, but I couldn't turn it far enough to see if it would abruptly die. The timing light I bought doesn't work or I'd check that. When I get a functional one, what exactly am I looking for? Thanks for your help, I wonder if my mechanic would like to walk me through this after hours for a cold 24 pk and a 20? That's about how sick I am of reinstallation after reinstallation of the dist, esp when I'm seemingly doing it "right." One other related question...the way the dist engages the oil pump shaft seems to indicate that when the dist is inserted correctly there's really only one way for the crossbar on the dist to slip into the oil pump slot. I use a floor jack bar and a light to turn the oil pump shaft approximately 30' to the right of center and it slips right down and the rotor points exactly where the #1 electrode is. I never had so much trouble with this procedure on my old 87 but this car is very puzzling. Thanks very much for all the help.
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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 515
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From: Webster,Texas,USA
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 5.7 liter
Transmission: 700R4
maybe this will help..
http://www.racer-x.f2s.com/proc/dist.htm
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http://www.racer-x.f2s.com/proc/dist.htm
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Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
Try to get the car to run smoothly by adjusting the timing, don't worry about the light. I don't even own one myself. Just get the car to run right and see where you are. If you can smooth it out by cranking the dist around, then you know how you have to adjust it.
To get precise on lining it up when you drop it in (or when it's just sitting there for that matter), you need to pull the shaft up as far as it will go in the dist body. That's what happens when the engine is running. That will cause it to rotate quite a bit CCW because of the hypoid gear. I'd bet you're still one tooth off in the CCW direction. And you are exactly right about the oil pump thing: the dist will only go in when that's lined up right.
Don't give up, you're pretty close, a little patience and logic will get you there.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
To get precise on lining it up when you drop it in (or when it's just sitting there for that matter), you need to pull the shaft up as far as it will go in the dist body. That's what happens when the engine is running. That will cause it to rotate quite a bit CCW because of the hypoid gear. I'd bet you're still one tooth off in the CCW direction. And you are exactly right about the oil pump thing: the dist will only go in when that's lined up right.
Don't give up, you're pretty close, a little patience and logic will get you there.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Thread Starter
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
Well I turned the dist back another tooth (damn I'm getting fast at this!) but now my battery went dead again!! So I'm charging that...on thing after another...
What do you mean still off in the CCW direction? Since last time you said to turn it CCW wouldn't that make me off in the CW direction? Just checking I don't want to be going backwards...
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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...
[This message has been edited by I ROCK (edited January 09, 2001).]
What do you mean still off in the CCW direction? Since last time you said to turn it CCW wouldn't that make me off in the CW direction? Just checking I don't want to be going backwards...
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89 Iroc-Z LB9 305 TPI auto 2.73 posi:
3" Dynomax "cat" back,K&N filters, TB bypass, 3" pipe in place of cat, cleaned and flow-matched injectors, 180' thermo, mild ignition mods, synthetic oil, kicker sound system, soon to attempt engine swap...
[This message has been edited by I ROCK (edited January 09, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 18,457
Likes: 16
From: Loveland, OH, US
Car: 4
Engine: 6
Transmission: 5
You're roght... my bad. I outsmarted myself a I edited the post I think!
Since when the engine is running the shaft is somewhat CCW of where it usually is when it's just sitting there, it's more common for it to be off that way, and therefore need to be moved one tooth CW...
Sorry for the confusion. It's easier to show than to explain in words I guess.
But still, the possibility exists that it could be wrong in either direction. So try moving it the one way first, see if it clears it up, if not, move it the other way one tooth at a time.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
Since when the engine is running the shaft is somewhat CCW of where it usually is when it's just sitting there, it's more common for it to be off that way, and therefore need to be moved one tooth CW...
Sorry for the confusion. It's easier to show than to explain in words I guess.
But still, the possibility exists that it could be wrong in either direction. So try moving it the one way first, see if it clears it up, if not, move it the other way one tooth at a time.
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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
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