I am rebuilding an 89 350 TPI motor, with about 88K miles on it. I'm sure, that if I wanted to reuse the block, I would have to have some heavy machine work done, right? So, I want to know where I can find a new engine block that I can transfer all my TPI stuff, heads, etc. I also want to use a roller camshaft and reuse the stock lifters. Where can I find a bare 350 engine block? Thanks.

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1984 Camaro Sport Coupe - 73K Miles
5.0 Carbed LG4
COMPLETELY stock except for a K&N Air Filter
F41 Suspension Package
700R4 Tranny
3.08 Rear End
New Paint
Best 1/4 Mile Run:
16.760 @ 80.74 MPH

Coming Soon:
350 TPI
Complete 3" Exhaust System
Aluminum Drive Shaft
3.27 Disc Brake Posi Rear

 

gm but it isn't going to save you any money. what you need to machine depends on what you have and there's no way to know with out a tear down and inspection.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd

 

Well, I've already stripped it down somewhat. All the TPI stuff except the base is off. And the valve covers are off as well. So I'll just have to wait and see when I get down there. What should I look for when it is stripped down all the way? Thanks.

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1984 Camaro Sport Coupe - 73K Miles
5.0 Carbed LG4
COMPLETELY stock except for a K&N Air Filter
F41 Suspension Package
700R4 Tranny
3.08 Rear End
New Paint
Best 1/4 Mile Run:
16.760 @ 80.74 MPH

Coming Soon:
350 TPI
Complete 3" Exhaust System
Aluminum Drive Shaft
3.27 Disc Brake Posi Rear

 

you need to measure the bores and the crank. you'd need a mike and dial bore gauge. if you don't ask if a machine shop in the area can measure it for you.

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ICON Motorsports
1st & 3rd

 

You should be able to get all the usual stuff done to a block for $250-300 or so. A new one will cost you a couple of times that much and really doesn't give you anything any better than a properly prepped used one.

Typically, to freshen a used block, you will need:

Remove ALL plugs and cam bearings BEFORE vatting
Vat
Check main bearing saddles for straightness, & align-bore if not straight
Bore cylinders if necessary
Hone cylinders to fit pistons
Vat again
Install cam bearings and plugs

About the only other things that might happen is that if the bearing bores aren't in a straight line (you can often tell about this during teardown) you'll need align-boring and/or honing, which might add $100.

The main bearings are oiled by passages that consist of a groove behind the cam bearings. For that reason, I ALWAYS remove the cam bearings and all the plugs I can myself before I take the engine to the shop. If I can't do that for some reason, I ask to see the block with the plugs out before it gets vatted. I want it vatted as bare as I can get it, period, so that they don't pretend to vat it with the cam bearings still in it and some kind of junk get caught in behind there. I put the plugs and cam bearings back in them myself after the shop is through, for the same reason. After I get them back and before I plug and bearing them I always take them to the quarter car wash and sterilize them using rifle brushes in all the oil passages, then paint them inside and out, then put in the bearings and plugs.

Find out whether it needs boring (or just decide to have it bored if that's your preference), and by how much, before you buy pistons. Then buy your pistons, give them to the shop, and have them finish the bores to the correct clearance to the pistons.

Same for the crank: have it turned but left a couple of thousandths oversize; when you get it back, put a set of bearings in the block, and polish the crank with 400 sandpaper (or even 320 emery cloth if it's alot too big) to the desired diameter (bearing clearance), then polish it with 1000 grit followed by 1500 grit. Use a strip of sandpaper wrapped all the way around the journal, and a fan belt wrapped around that, to evenly polish the entire journal surface to a mirror finish.

Attention to details pays off in long life and improved power output.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."