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spring question...

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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 07:55 AM
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SeanTimothy's Avatar
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spring question...

you people must be sick of me by now anyways...i plan on running a cam close to .490 possibly .500 lift....i found a set of springs that are good for .550...now seeing how im going to run non roller, is it ok to run the .550? or will that stress the cam too much??

stupid question....intake and exhaust springs are the same size correct.....i know i know, i am 99% sur ethey are, i just want a confirmation....

sad i ask this and i have ported and polished heads....but i never mixed up the springs at all.....everything came off and went on the exact same way...

cam i used my stock retainers and uh...the circular disc thingds ontop of the stock springs? ...i assume i can...and should...but yet again, im asking...better safe than sorry
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 09:52 AM
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ede's Avatar
ede
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From: Jackson County
when you buy your cam buy springs to match it. there are all kinds of springs good to .55 lift and soem may or may not be a good match for your cam. on a SBC all the springs are the same size ,1.25". spring diameter is something to consider when you buy springs. also any where close to .47 lift you'd want to trash the pull out studs and get screw ins. you'd also want to trash the factory rotator assembly and get aftermarket retainers.
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Old Jan 2, 2004 | 06:42 PM
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the pinned studs wont work? and by rotators you mean the disc type things ontop of the springs correct?
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 07:47 AM
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ede
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yeah the rotator is the disk thing on top the valve. lot of people liked pinned studs and have good luck wit hthem. to me it seems liek a waste of time when you can put real screw in studs in.
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 08:31 AM
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well, its a matter of money honestly, you have to figure up maybe 5 bucks per stud that has to be tapped, plus the stud. lets say 10 bucks total per stud to be tapped. thats 160 bucks. im only a fan of pinned studs because it costs a grand total of 5 dollars lol.

YES screw in is 50% better, but to me, and just me, pouring in 700 dollars on 416's is just dumb. when you can get good after market heads for 100 more.

just my 2 cents though.

so are the stock springs the same size int vrs ex.? looks like the int are taller . that or the ex springs are tighter? due to the exhaust springs having the whole bearing type rotator...
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 07:48 PM
  #6  
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Pinning the studs is all you'll ever need for your purposes. No chance of busting a stud boss either, trying to remove the studs.

On the 416 heads the exhaust spring seat is machined deeper to allow for the thicker exhaust rotator style retainer.
if you want to eliminate the rotator, you want to shim up the spring seat and use a stock retainer like the intakes have.
the shim thickness you need is .105" thats 1-.060", 1-.030" and 1-.015" shim for each exhaust spring seat.

Just about any popular replacement peformance stock diameter valve spring will do for your needs.

Except K-motion K-700's. El junko..... Avoid these.
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 09:41 PM
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yeah i figured the pinned studs would work fine for anything under .500 lift....get this....somehow my rocker arm jumped off the valve stem in ahigh rev...thinking its the time i bent a push rod, anyways the rocker arm somehow sawed into the damn rocker arm post almost literally halfway through....so i had to pull the pin, replace the stud, ...then came the hard part....pinning the new stud....through the existing hole in the boss.....sure, going through one side is easy, its already done, the tricky part was getting through the stud and out the backside of it through the eexisting hole.....now that was pure luck haha....never wanna do that again....cause we all know, if i wouldnt of gone slow as all hell, and gone a lil too high or low, it woulda rendered the head useless.....i dont think you can put two holes in the boss and it still be strong....i could be wrong but i dont wanna try it,....thank *** i made it trhough the other side correctly

anyways, where do i find these shims???
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Old Jan 3, 2004 | 10:18 PM
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From: Ontario, Canada
Car: 1988 Firebird S/E
Engine: 406Ci Vortec SBC
Transmission: TH-350/3500stall
Axle/Gears: 7.5" Auburn 4.10 Posi-Traction
Originally posted by SeanTimothy
yeah i figured the pinned studs would work fine for anything under .500 lift....get this....somehow my rocker arm jumped off the valve stem in ahigh rev...thinking its the time i bent a push rod, anyways the rocker arm somehow sawed into the damn rocker arm post almost literally halfway through....so i had to pull the pin, replace the stud, ...then came the hard part....pinning the new stud....through the existing hole in the boss.....sure, going through one side is easy, its already done, the tricky part was getting through the stud and out the backside of it through the eexisting hole.....now that was pure luck haha....never wanna do that again....cause we all know, if i wouldnt of gone slow as all hell, and gone a lil too high or low, it woulda rendered the head useless.....i dont think you can put two holes in the boss and it still be strong....i could be wrong but i dont wanna try it,....thank *** i made it trhough the other side correctly

anyways, where do i find these shims???
Your local automotive jobber store or machine shop.

VSI, Silver Seal, Speed pro. Comp cams etc etc.

www.competitionproducts.com
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Old Jan 4, 2004 | 07:59 AM
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ede
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From: Jackson County
best deal, or price on shims i ever seen is buying directly from k line. 100 shims for 20 dollars. jegs sells a pack of 16 for 20 and my local machine shop is about the same. k line is in michigan and has a 800 number but my catalog and roladex is at work. do a search on google and you'll find them.
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