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this cant be right?

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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 03:27 PM
  #1  
SeanTimothy's Avatar
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this cant be right?

ok i posted this in the tranny section but i need a kinda quick answer....

does the ring gear need to be pressed onto the carrier...

i got a set of used oem gm gears, and a zexel torsen unit from SLP....

i have never installed gears so im not sure if this is supposed to be pressed on or not , but it wont sit on the base level.....theres about a 1/8 inch gap between the base of the posi and the base of the ring....

like i said im not sure if im supposed to just tighten down all the bolts and itll draw the ring to the base, have it pressed, or is the ring is a 2 series? not sure....anyways here, take a look
Attached Thumbnails this cant be right?-problem.jpg  
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 07:38 PM
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8Mike9's Avatar
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From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
No, it should not be pressed, just bolted. Left hand threads, BTW.

Check for burrs and such.

Last edited by 8Mike9; Jan 9, 2004 at 07:40 PM.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 10:27 PM
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92 zzz28's Avatar
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From: Jacksonville, NC
Car: Guess
Engine: Crazy 8
Transmission: So close to being a manual I can taste it
Maybe you need one of those spacer rings...
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 10:30 PM
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88 350 tpi formula's Avatar
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From: WI,USA
Car: 89 FORMULA 350, 91 Z28 Convertible
Engine: ls1, LB9
Transmission: t56, Auto
Axle/Gears: S60/ 3.73
they are some what tight, that's why they tell you to warm them up first heat lamp (no torch) when I bought my richmond gears that's what the instructions said. and every oe set I have ever had was the same way.
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Old Jan 9, 2004 | 11:34 PM
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From: connecticut
Car: 89 rs
Engine: 305 supercharged
Transmission: th 700
also after you bolt the gear on make sure you can still put the paddle into the diff.sometimes with 3;42 gears or higher the gear is somewhat thicker and it will hit the gear before you can slide it in, making it almost impossible to remove if you ever have to pull the axles......the gears i got through slp are fly cut where the interference is.....
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 04:55 AM
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ede
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not press fit but more of an interferance fit. the bolts will draw it in the rest of the way.
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 06:53 AM
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yeah, before i read this post i just said to hell with it and tried snugging the bolts down SLOWLY with lieke 1 lb of pressure on opposing sides, it finally drew down....snug fit though, i hope for ANY reason the ring doesnt need to come back off...

also....whats the deal with this small bolt on the posi??? connect to a black uhm..Thing in the middle of the posi , not sure what it is...looks to be adjustable?? i dunno...should i mess with it or leave it be....i vote leave it be lol
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 06:56 AM
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ede
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not sure what you mean but it sounds like the bolt to hold the cross pin in place. do a search there's lots of pics on here of it.
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 07:55 AM
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yeah its hard to describe, thank *** for my new digi camera...helps alot ....a whole lot....always hard describing "ya know, that lil bolt, that goes uh...to that place, by that thing....uhh" .... lol....
Attached Thumbnails this cant be right?-screw.jpg  
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 09:29 AM
  #10  
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From: connecticut
Car: 89 rs
Engine: 305 supercharged
Transmission: th 700
you have to remove that bolt and remove that "puck" you cant remove your axles and your existing diff without removing that bolt and puling the pin, that alond with the clips worces the axles to lock into place with the clips,same principal with that black square and bolt.
if you see in my earlyer post about the interference of that puck with the gears. im all for first timers but not to be hard on ya but you have to know how to dissasemble and assemble that rear at the least, then having to have accese to a press to remove the front inner pinion bearing and press it on th new one. and then measure yor backlash at the least check your pattern.... i would use new bearings if i was you the slp diffs are thrown around alot after removal so the bearings if you look close are hammered up...
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 10:57 AM
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well, i have acess to a press, i have all new bearings, paid 100 bucks for the rear end rebuild kit....anyways.....man you really need to use periods.....dashes...SOMETHING to seperate your sentences lol...its hard to tell wtf you are talking about when its one long run on sentence with nothing to seperate step 1 from step two.


so what i gathered from what you said, The screw/black bar *puck* holds the axels togather, correct?

so when i install this in the rear end, i am supposed to tighten that black bolt down completly, Correct?

Does the *puck* have to be removed at all?? i hope not, the ring gear is pressed onto the carrier pretty tight, it take a Hammer to get that sucker off ....
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Old Jan 10, 2004 | 04:17 PM
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From: connecticut
Car: 89 rs
Engine: 305 supercharged
Transmission: th 700
sorry, this morning i was holding my son and was typing with 1 finger. yes you will need to remove the puck,because that is what holds the c clips from falling out.
slp actualy cuts the bottom part of the gears they sell so you can easily slibe the puck in, otherwize you have to gring the puck alittle to slide it in and out. after you insert the axles and put the c clips on then you put the puck in and tighten the bolt.
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