Vac Leak/ Choke on, Electrical buzz
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,116
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From: Rio Rico, AZ 85648
Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Vac Leak/ Choke on, Electrical buzz
I recently bought an '84 Camaro with an L69. The smog pump had been disconnected, but was still in the car. The vaccum lines were very messed up and the egr valve is shot. I decided to take it all out since there aren't emissions test here and it was very difficult to fix a very small coolant leak that I had.
I ran new vaccum lines as I understood should be done...........Here's what I did........
There are 3 tubes coming from the exhaust manifold, one on the driver's side and two on the passenger's. I ran a hose across the engine to connect 2 of them, and pinched a hose off on the third.
The ECE valve is shot, so I just left bare, no hoses or anything. That's what I think it's called, the one that has 2 connections and is coming out of the intake manifold, near the thermostat house, but not one of the two on the housing itself. The air canister then had a hose to be pinched off, two of them actually, so I did.
The pvc valve has a hose running from it to the carb, like the emissions diagram shows. The air filter canister is hooked up just like before......
There is one more vaccum line coming off of the carb, and that one I just pinched off as well. When I left that one open the RPM's stayed at 1500 at idle.
Now here's the problem.....
The electric choke stays on............
There is a clicking sound which increases with the engine speed, it sounds electrical. I've disconnected each of the electrical connections at the carb, but no dice.
There is a slight hesitation when I floor it in idle and the hesitation is at about 1500 rpm.
Car still seems to have plenty of power, but not quite right..........I think.......
So do I have to hook everything back up, which was done very poorly in the first place, or is there something that I missed?
I ran new vaccum lines as I understood should be done...........Here's what I did........
There are 3 tubes coming from the exhaust manifold, one on the driver's side and two on the passenger's. I ran a hose across the engine to connect 2 of them, and pinched a hose off on the third.
The ECE valve is shot, so I just left bare, no hoses or anything. That's what I think it's called, the one that has 2 connections and is coming out of the intake manifold, near the thermostat house, but not one of the two on the housing itself. The air canister then had a hose to be pinched off, two of them actually, so I did.
The pvc valve has a hose running from it to the carb, like the emissions diagram shows. The air filter canister is hooked up just like before......
There is one more vaccum line coming off of the carb, and that one I just pinched off as well. When I left that one open the RPM's stayed at 1500 at idle.
Now here's the problem.....
The electric choke stays on............
There is a clicking sound which increases with the engine speed, it sounds electrical. I've disconnected each of the electrical connections at the carb, but no dice.
There is a slight hesitation when I floor it in idle and the hesitation is at about 1500 rpm.
Car still seems to have plenty of power, but not quite right..........I think.......
So do I have to hook everything back up, which was done very poorly in the first place, or is there something that I missed?
Well, Let Me see If I can Cover everything, Im Bound to Forget Something :0
If You removed the Smog Pump, You should be left with two 1/2" Sized Pipes On the passenger side ( If You removed the Check Valves, the things the Smog Pump hoses clamp Onto ), and One On the Driver side. You can Either Plug these With 1/2" NPT caps, Or Just Pinch Hoses off on them. Then You can remove the Diverter valve, and all the AIR pump tubing. Now, there should be some Plastic Tube that Runs Around in there, You can remove All of it.
Let me approach this differntly. Ill tell you what you cant remove
You want to Leave the PCV connected( as per Vader's Instruction!), The way it is routed Stock includes the EVAp canister So I would just get a new Line and run it Strait from Valve Cover to Carb.
You Dont have a Vaccum advance Distributor, So you Dont have to Worry about that. If its a Automatic Tranny, there will be a Vaccum Line that runs Down to the tranny. You want to hook this up to a source of Manifold Vaccum (Constant vaccum).
obviously the Vaccum Source to the MC on the back of the carb Should stay, if You Like your Power brakes
Other than that, You can Take It all out, EGR, EVAP, AIR, Everything. there is a Small metal tube on your passenger side Down in the exhaust Manifold area, wich Controls a Exhaust crossover To Aid in Heating the Manifold On Cold starts And the like, I have mine disconencted but I guess you could Hook that up If you wanted, But Run it through the Temperature actuated Vaccum switch On the thermostat Houseing, that way It will Stop heating the manifold when the car gets up to temperature.
If You decide not to Run it, You can just pull that temp Switch out along with the large One Next to the thermo houseing on the manifold, and plug them Up with Pipe PLugs.
Other than that, It can all Come out. It really cleans up the engine compartment, And Simplify's things. I wish I had a pciture to Show you Of Mine, But Im not Digital Camera Blessed
Good Luck, if You ahve any questions Go ahead and shoot me a Mail I can prolly Help You out.
Ps Im sure i fergot some stupid little tube someplace, if You get into it and Discover somehting I didnt cover, go ahead and ask!
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
If You removed the Smog Pump, You should be left with two 1/2" Sized Pipes On the passenger side ( If You removed the Check Valves, the things the Smog Pump hoses clamp Onto ), and One On the Driver side. You can Either Plug these With 1/2" NPT caps, Or Just Pinch Hoses off on them. Then You can remove the Diverter valve, and all the AIR pump tubing. Now, there should be some Plastic Tube that Runs Around in there, You can remove All of it.
Let me approach this differntly. Ill tell you what you cant remove

You want to Leave the PCV connected( as per Vader's Instruction!), The way it is routed Stock includes the EVAp canister So I would just get a new Line and run it Strait from Valve Cover to Carb.
You Dont have a Vaccum advance Distributor, So you Dont have to Worry about that. If its a Automatic Tranny, there will be a Vaccum Line that runs Down to the tranny. You want to hook this up to a source of Manifold Vaccum (Constant vaccum).
obviously the Vaccum Source to the MC on the back of the carb Should stay, if You Like your Power brakes

Other than that, You can Take It all out, EGR, EVAP, AIR, Everything. there is a Small metal tube on your passenger side Down in the exhaust Manifold area, wich Controls a Exhaust crossover To Aid in Heating the Manifold On Cold starts And the like, I have mine disconencted but I guess you could Hook that up If you wanted, But Run it through the Temperature actuated Vaccum switch On the thermostat Houseing, that way It will Stop heating the manifold when the car gets up to temperature.
If You decide not to Run it, You can just pull that temp Switch out along with the large One Next to the thermo houseing on the manifold, and plug them Up with Pipe PLugs.
Other than that, It can all Come out. It really cleans up the engine compartment, And Simplify's things. I wish I had a pciture to Show you Of Mine, But Im not Digital Camera Blessed

Good Luck, if You ahve any questions Go ahead and shoot me a Mail I can prolly Help You out.
Ps Im sure i fergot some stupid little tube someplace, if You get into it and Discover somehting I didnt cover, go ahead and ask!
------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver
Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 0
From: Rio Rico, AZ 85648
Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Followed this to the T, except for the canister. Disconnected it, clamped it off tight. Still have a leak or something. In fact only one of the lines coming off of the carb has any noticable vaccum pull. The others I can disconnect and check, but it doesn't affect the idle and no suction.
The electric choke is no longer stuck on, but now when I rev the car, it still hesitates, then the idle drops to around 300 and wants to stall....
Need more help.
Thanks again.
The electric choke is no longer stuck on, but now when I rev the car, it still hesitates, then the idle drops to around 300 and wants to stall....
Need more help.
Thanks again.
Thread Starter
Supreme Member
Joined: Jan 2001
Posts: 1,116
Likes: 0
From: Rio Rico, AZ 85648
Car: 1989 IROC-1
Engine: L98
Transmission: 700r4
Turns out that the electrical component on the passenger's side, towards the nose of the car was making the sound. When I disconnected it, what ever it is, my problems were solved. Suddenly, my car idles, and doesn't stall after I rev the engine. Disconnecting this mystery component made my idle raise to about a grand, so I lowered it back down to about 750.
Thanks for your help.
Thanks for your help.
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