I want to build a 383 for my 89 GTA. What do i have to do as far as air and fuel delivery? Will an AFPR and a bigger TB work? if i understand correctly, you put a 400 crank in a 350 block with 5.7" rods, right? Does the L98 have those rods? I know ill need a different balancer and flexplate. im thinkinf of the ZZ4 cam with a full exhaust. Will the performance gains be worth the work and money put into it? what gains can i expect? PLEASE GUYS, answer all the questions you can. THX

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1989 GTA, L98/auto, t-tops, Black w/ grey int.
Ran a 14.85 @ 93.4 mph w/ 305 exhaust (2 little crossflow mufflers), descreened MAF, TB coolant bypass, and casting wall ground down behind throttle plates.

 

NOBODY knows????????

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1989 GTA, L98/auto, t-tops, Black w/ grey int.
Ran a 14.85 @ 93.4 mph w/ 305 exhaust (2 little crossflow mufflers), descreened MAF, TB coolant bypass, and casting wall ground down behind throttle plates.

 

Aw, come on. anybody????

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1989 GTA, L98/auto, t-tops, Black w/ grey int.
Ran a 14.85 @ 93.4 mph w/ 305 exhaust (2 little crossflow mufflers), descreened MAF, TB coolant bypass, and casting wall ground down behind throttle plates.

 

ok here goes. I'm building a 383 right now and this is what I can tell you. Save yourself the trouble and just buy a crank made specifically for a 383. SCAT has some nice ones. Make sure it's for the 1-piece rear main seal design, because I'm guessing that's what you have now. You can reuse your stock rods. The pistons will be .030 over. As far as the block....the cylinders have to be bored over .030. You will have to clearance the oil pan rails for the counterweights of the crank, as well as possibly the bottom of some of the cylinder walls. This can easilly be done with a die grinder. The only other clearance problem you should watch out for is between the cam lobes and the rods. I didn't experience this one, but I've heard of it. Oh yeah, make sure you get pistons made for the longer stroke crank or the skirts will have to be cut also.
As far as other parts, I would go with AFR heads without a doubt. Also I would suggest atleast replacing your baseplate and runners, if not going with a Super Ram or other aftermarket setup. As far as cams you will have to find what you think is best for your setup. If you have any q's you can email me.

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


***** Flyby: (n) When you let off the throttle after beating a ***** Racer by a few car lengths and he then blows by you in an attempt to convince you he really won the race.

 

Oh yeah, one more thing that I almost forgot. Make sure you get the correct rod bearings. Chances are they will have to be chamferred. Check with your crank manufacturer, but save yourself the headache I went through. Chalk that one up to experience.

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Riccioli Performance Motorworks

--RPM Racing--

-Currently building first ever engine. 383 with Super Ram plenum and runners, Edelbrock lower intake, Bosch 24# injectors, either AFR or Trick Flow heads, MSD ignition.
-Will be installing Baer Brakes
-Will be installing full Spohn suspension in rear
-Art Carr 700R4 trans??


***** Flyby: (n) When you let off the throttle after beating a ***** Racer by a few car lengths and he then blows by you in an attempt to convince you he really won the race.