I just recently bought a 92 RS and when I'm driving around (mostly while idling) the engine gets to 220+. I was wondering if anyone else has had this problem and knows how to fix it. I don't know much about cars so go easy on me.

 

I had the similar problem on my 92. I don't know why but they just like to have the temp go up, up, and up! Anyways I guess you want to know how to fix it. Now this is what worked for me, now the car will not go over 200. I swaped in a 175 Degree stat. I tried 170,180,185 but I felt that it worked the best with the 175. If you go too cold it will not cool the car at all. Another great additon is a fan switch, check out hypertech otherwise if you get a Jet chip is changes the fan settings. Other people that don't want to spend the money just hard wire in a switch, I wouldn't do that but it works fine. One other thing that I would just check is that your hoses are not congested and that your radator is in tip top shap.

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--Spyder--

1992 Z-28
305 TPI, T-5, T-tops, 255-50-16 GSC's, Borla cat back, otherwise all stock

1992 Camaro RS
LO3, T-56, ported and polished heads (as if you can do more), 14X3 Open Element w/ K&N, hiflow cats (and thats it), 245/45/16 GSC, 170 stat w/ fan switch, STB, Subframe connectors, KYB's

1982 Z-28
LU5, Auto, T-tops, Bone Stock

 

Hey, thanks for the help. I will try it out.

 

Look under the car, just forward of the front wheels. There should be a large, flat black plastic air dam under the car. It Should stick straight down and be about 5-7 inches from the ground. If that is not there, your car will overheat. This pushes air up into the radiator. That little grill in the front of your car is basically for looks. Lots of 3rd gens seem to be missing this item.

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Rob P
89RSconvtZZ4TPI
Edelbrock Hi-Flow Intake
SLP Dual Cold Air Intake
1 5/8" Headers
Semi-Siamesed Runners
MSD6AL/relocated MAT/ AdjFPR/IROC frnt@rear swaybar/wonderbar/steeringbox/alum drvshaft/ Alston SFC/3:23posi disc rear/MAC LCA/H.Adams Panhard Rod/KYB struts/ shocks/
92Z28convt5spd
71Impala convt 402BB
BETTER DRIVING THRU SUPERIOR HORSEPOWER!

 

Hey, the flat plastic air dam is underneath the car so it couldnt be that.

 

i gotta disagree with that. when i experimented with a ram air setup i blocked approximately 50% of that grill and subsequently my car ran about 200 degrees on the freeway instead of the normal 170-180 degres. i quickly scrapped the ram air.


as for overheating camaroBOY, my car did that and i replaced EVERYTHING. first off, see if your car is REALLY overheating. get like a steak thermometer and put it IN your radiator. on my V6 the fan is supposed to come on at 228 degrees. my gauge was saying like 140. BUT, the thermometer read 227 degrees. no overheating. but my gauge was still screwy. so out of the blue i decided to replace the coolant temperature sensor ($10). solved my "overheating" problems.


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Dan
1990 3.1L RS
80 Series Flowmaster
It's fast(er than a 3 cyl metro)

 

An air dam only forces air into the radiator at speeds of around 45 mph and up. Make sure your fans are turning on when the car warms-up. If they aren't get a new fan switch, jeg's sells a colder one that turns the fans on earlier.

Other options include a water pump, failure, look for coolant leaks when then car is running, or mysterious coolant loss. You could also just be in need of a coolant flush.

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--Steve S--
1984 Trans Am 305 LG4, 5 speed
RPO codes point to Recaro version
Daily Driver, Flowmaster 80 Series

 

The 91-92 RS overheating thing is very common, samn thing happened to mine.

The fan switch in the passenger cylinder head is bad, change it.

Before you do that, make sure you fan isn't kicking on when it's overheating.

And make sure it kicks on when you turn the AC on.

 

What these cars really need is a double fan set up. Does anyone know of one that bolts in and doesn't cost an arm and a leg?

Also you should remove the black plastic piece that covers the top of the radiator/AC condesor and check between the two. I found enough stuff in there to build a bird nest for an eagle.

Bear Tracks

 

if you just brought the car then it probably still has the original radiator, spend the 140 bucks on that, my 91 rs did the same thing and we brought the radiator and removed the termo and it hasnt gone over 180 in 6 months

 

Hey Greeahr, if you want dual fans that bolt right in, all you have to do is buy a used IROC dual fan setup out of the classifieds on this site.

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89RS w/350 TPI; 69RS/SS w/450 HP 350/Muncie 4-Speed "Too weird to live, too rare to die."

 

Just my .02, but I've noticed my car stays alot cooler after I had my coated headers installed. Yesterday (temp in the low 60's) I had the car idling for about 30 minutes and the temp guage never got close to 220 and the fan never turned on

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92 Camaro RS LO3, 5-spd, T-tops
Performance:
SLP 1 3/4" Headers (Coated by Paul Barry Motorsports), Flowmaster Catback Exhaust, Fastchip Performance PROM, Centerforce Dual Friction Clutch, Xact 8mm wires, Open Air Element w/K&N Filter, Z28 Grille w/aftmkt fog lamps
Electronics:
Alpine 8030 Alarm System, Valentine One Radar Detector (How did I ever drive without one?), Pioneer DEH 7450 Head Unit w/6-pack CD changer, Pioneer DEQ 7600 Sound Processor, 2 Kenwood KAC-846 Amps powering 2 12" Pro Red subs, 2 Pioneer 6x9 and 2 MTX 4x6 speakers.
NEXT UP: TBI mods, Edelbrock performer intake

 

Hello all, first post here!!
I know I am probably not the first one to complain about the overall common issue of the Camaro overheating. I own a 92 Camaro RS 3.1 V 6. Last month driving home it overheated, something it had never done since I purchased it. I opened the hood to hear the radiator gurgling and what sounded like the radiator fan knocking around. I stopped on the side of the interstate and let it cool back down. Since this day I have replaced the upper radiator hose, thermostat, cooling fan relay and water pump( after each I've burped the system to the best of my knowledge) I continue getting a reading which fluctuates while driving around and if the air in the vehicle is off and in the cool position the temp will begin to climb steadily until the fan kicks on. I'm not sure what else to do as my funds are being bled dry due to continuous trips to purchase antifreeze and replacment parts. Anyone have any info.

Thanks in Advance

 

Was the gurgling the coolant going into the overflow tank? If so you need a new radiator cap, 8 bucks.

 

The noise seemed to be coming from the recovery tank actually while the knocking notice came right from the radiators fan housing. I have seen some steam coming from the radiator cap as well. I will try this and replace. Do you believe this could be causing the intemittent temp fluctuation