I ROCK

My lighter body has a short in it that makes the acc fuse go pop so I have unhooked the lighter connector. Today I tried to swap in another lighter body but either it also has a short or the short is somewhere else b/c the acc fuse popped again. So I disconnected the lighter and replaced the fuse. Now my hatch motor won't pull the hatch down or operate at all as far as I can tell. The lid fuse and all other fuses are ok. I know there's a big piggyback connector (S219) where the orange lighter wire and hatch wire would have a connection but all the other stuff that runs through that connector works fine. Anyone have any ideas? could I have fried the motor? Thanks very much in advance.

------------------
Base: 89 Iroc-Z LB9 auto 2.73 posi
Exh: 3" Dynomax muffler, 3" Pipe in place of cat
Ign: GMPP 8MM wires, Accel cap&rotor, AC Plugs
Fuel: Cleaned and flow-matched injectors, afpr, !air pump&diverter valve
Sound: Clarion deck, Kicker speakers and amps
Suspension: KYB Shocks, BMR Strut Tower Brace
Misc: TB Bypass, Synthetic Oil, Flexlite Transmission cooler,
free mods, flow tech headers on the way,
engine swap and 4th gen seats in the works...

mostafa3k

I'm assuming that your latch is in the "down" position. If so this should work.

There's a little reset button inside the latch housing. The hatch hits it every time you close the hatch to tell the motor that it's time to pull it down. Stick your finger in there and hit the button (doesn't look like a button, but it looks like part of the latch) It starts moving up the instant you push it in. Keep your finger in there until it comes all the up and clicks.

If this doesn't work, i'm afraid your problem is bigger than your latch.