It's on an engine stand now, and I'd like to know if it's gonna leak before I put it in the car. I'm pretty sure there's pressure in around the seal when the engines running, so doesn't that affect if it's going to leak or not vs's just laying the engine on it's side to see if oil comes out.

Thanks,

Scott M.

 

Did you put it together right? Use good quality gaskets and sealer? No shortcuts, optional materials or techniques, etc.? Have one extra bolt laying around that you don't know where it came from? If the answer is yes to all these questions, it will probably be OK.

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"So many Mustangs, so little time..."
ICON Motorsports

 

Actually you want to answer yes to all of these questions but the last one. Sorry felt like being annoying

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Mike Kenny
Current: 1991 RS 305 TBI
Past: 1990 RS 305 TBI (A woman forgot what red lights are for)
Current: mostly stock - newer 305 w/ 12,000 on it
Eclipse speakers all around w/ 10" tube powered by a Alpine V12 in back
K&N filter w/XStream flow lid - It is sweet!!
Future: 2" Cowl hood

 

In a single word answer. No. Without having the engine running, there's no way to tell if anything will leak. Oil sitting in the bottom of the pan has no way of reaching the pan gaskets and seals. If all the seal and gaskets were installed properly then it shouldn't leak. That's not saying that a missing plug from an oil gallery may be missing. The bottom bolt hole on the front of the engine below the fuel pump needs a short bolt. Those bolt holes are for the original engine mounts when GM first made the SBC. The bottom hole opens into a return oil gallery. A short bolt is required because the fuel pump pushrod is behine the hole.

If it makes you feel any better. My new big block has a couple of hours run time on it now. Just today I noticed that the rear main seal (2 piece) has started leaking. A drop a second. To fix it I now have to unbolt the headers and lift the engine all the way up to get the pan off. I did everything correct when installing the seal. One lip higher than the other. A dab of silicone on the ends etc and it still decided to leak.

I guestimate it will take about 6 hours to change it and there was no way to tell if it was going to leak until the engine is running.

If you can find someone with a run-up stand you can use it to fire up the engine, break in the cam and check for leaks before the engine is installed in the car. Some day I'm going to make one myself. A friend of mine hooked a rad up to an engine sitting on jack stands so he could fire it up. He had no guages so he couldn't check oil pressure or coolent temp but it worked. Looked cool when you can see the flames coming out the exhaust manifolds.

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Follow my racing progress on Stephen's racing page
and check out the race car

87 IROC-Z Pro ET Bracket Race Car
383 stroker (carbed) with double hump cast iron heads and pump gas
461 Big Block installed and ready for the 2001 racing season

Best results before the 383 blew up
Best ET on a time slip: 11.857 altitude corrected to 11.163
Best MPH on a time slip: 117.87 altitude corrected to 126.10
Altitude corrected rear wheel HP based on power to weight ratio: 476.5
Best 60 foot: 1.662

Racing at 3500 feet elevation but most race days it's over 5000 feet density altitude!
Member of the Calgary Drag Racing Association

87 IROC bracket car, 91 454SS daily driver, 95 Homebuilt Harley