305. Just a little bit of speed...
305. Just a little bit of speed...
Ok, I, the poor college student, have decided to keep the LG4 I have in my TA, because, let's face it, I'm poor, and will never race the thing... just want to be able to win a couple of stoplight wars sometimes.
What can I do with my LG4 to get some respectable power out of it, and have it remain driveable. For Cheap.
Emissions are not a concern, and I already removed the emissions crap... of course, it drives horrible, but it's disassembled at my parents' house anyway
Jon
What can I do with my LG4 to get some respectable power out of it, and have it remain driveable. For Cheap.
Emissions are not a concern, and I already removed the emissions crap... of course, it drives horrible, but it's disassembled at my parents' house anyway

Jon
slam a intake on it and stab a cam in it. 204 to 214 duration with 450 lift would be pretty good for low end punch. some good gears. 3.42 to 3.73 would be good. oh yea posi is a must. headers and a 3inch exhust with some nice sounding muffies. you would have a pretty jiving 305 T/A
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when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops
Curent: 350,performer RPM intake ,650dp, 700r4, headers, 3inch exhast
Spring 01: 406, Comp 282 solid cam, 2400 stall converter, every thing else the same.
R.I.P #3
[This message has been edited by GOLD85 (edited February 20, 2001).]
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when the green flag drops the bull$hit stops
Curent: 350,performer RPM intake ,650dp, 700r4, headers, 3inch exhast
Spring 01: 406, Comp 282 solid cam, 2400 stall converter, every thing else the same.
R.I.P #3
[This message has been edited by GOLD85 (edited February 20, 2001).]
Whoa whoa whoa, don't get carried away there Gold, he said CHEAP. Gears, posi, headers, and exhaust can be frickin' expensive. The intake is a definate good move though. Try the Edelbrock Performer, non-EGR (I think) it's about 100 bucks. Match this with an Edel. Performer cam, also about $100, if you have the ability to do this and can have the car laid up for a day or two.
Now, headers will probably give you the one of the biggest gains, but most are pretty expensive. Budget ones can be had for less, but fit/quality might be an issue.
In my opinion, save up for the headers first since that is the most restrictive area on the stock engine, and will probably give you the best gain. It will also make further mods more effective.
Now, headers will probably give you the one of the biggest gains, but most are pretty expensive. Budget ones can be had for less, but fit/quality might be an issue.
In my opinion, save up for the headers first since that is the most restrictive area on the stock engine, and will probably give you the best gain. It will also make further mods more effective.
Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
Hey dude,
Don't necessarily save and spend a ton on headers. I recommend buying the flowtechs that have an O2 bung from j.c. whitney for under 100 bucks. w/o emission they will be easier (not easy!) to install and the difference over manifolds will be night and day. Racers with super tuned engines spend thousands experimenting with different header types on different engines - it's a very exacting science. Since you're obviously out of that game, why not free up the biggest restriction on your car (other than weight!) with some dirt-cheap headers? Then when you save a little money and want to get serious you can make the decision about whether to keep the cheapies or sell them for $50 and get expensive custom ones.
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"Among so many conflicting ideas and so many different perpectives, the honest man is confused and distressed and the skeptic becomes wicked...Since one must take sides, one might as well choose the side that is victorious, the side which devastates, loots, and burns. Considering the alternative, it is better to eat than to be eaten."
Napoleon I
Don't necessarily save and spend a ton on headers. I recommend buying the flowtechs that have an O2 bung from j.c. whitney for under 100 bucks. w/o emission they will be easier (not easy!) to install and the difference over manifolds will be night and day. Racers with super tuned engines spend thousands experimenting with different header types on different engines - it's a very exacting science. Since you're obviously out of that game, why not free up the biggest restriction on your car (other than weight!) with some dirt-cheap headers? Then when you save a little money and want to get serious you can make the decision about whether to keep the cheapies or sell them for $50 and get expensive custom ones.
------------------
"Among so many conflicting ideas and so many different perpectives, the honest man is confused and distressed and the skeptic becomes wicked...Since one must take sides, one might as well choose the side that is victorious, the side which devastates, loots, and burns. Considering the alternative, it is better to eat than to be eaten."
Napoleon I
Another idea is to adjust the spring that controls how fast the vacuum secondaries open up. Also, have a friend mash on the gas pedal while you look at the carb. Make sure the butterflies open up all the way. Mine didn't, so I took some slack out of the cable. With these to things, It felt like I added 25hp.
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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI
Gutted MAF
Ported Plenum
TB Bypass
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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI
Gutted MAF
Ported Plenum
TB Bypass
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