My 88' TBI has a little bit of play when i twist the distributor cap left and right. I know for sure that everything is tightened securely. It is about a 1/4" of play. I checked this on my 92 RS and there is no play in it at all. Is this something i should worry about? Does this mean that my distributor gears are worn and might mess with my timing?

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Pat Hirsz

88 305TBI
Mods:Hooker Aerochamber 3" exhaust, gutted kitty, March pullies, no smog, 180 thermo,
14x4 K&N, 3.42 gears,
Eibach springs with KYB's all around,
Harwood cowl hood, Z-28 wing, fresh paint(black)
120,000 miles, 5spd, T-tops
Run a best of 16.7 @85mph before gears

92 RS, 305TBI, auto, 3.08 gears, 180 thermo, glasspack (no muffler)

 

that would be bad.

however, you do not check for play with the cap on.

with the cap removed, you grab the rotor with your hand and pull side to side (not twisting). There should be no visable play. A very small amount of play will not be too bad, but anything more and you need either a distributor rebuild or a new one.

 

i also checked it with the distributor cap off and it was giving the rotor was giving the same amount of play (without twisting)

 

sounds like the distributor is junk.

get on the phone to summit and ask for MSD's finest

*well actually pull your distributor out and check the condition of everything including the gears first.
Your distributor gear needs to be matched to your cam-gear. If you run a hard distributor gear with a soft cam-gear, then that is bad (will eat up the cam-gear). Make sure your new distributor has the proper gear to match your cam, or change the distributor gear yourself.

I prefer non-computer distributors by far..


[This message has been edited by The ODB (edited February 22, 2001).]

 

Of course Summit will interpret that as the most expensive MSD product available. Can't go to non CC controlled, just get a remanufactured distributor from a parts store. Only $115-$150, better than $300 or so for something that does the same thing, only slightly better

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--Steve S--
1984 Trans Am 305 LG4, 5 speed
Daily Driver, Flowmaster 80 Series
NOW FEATURING: Holley 600 cfm & vacuum advance

 

You say with cap on, you twist it and it moves. Sounds like its not tighten down enough. Possible that your hold down clamp is broken, the bolt is stuck, and wont go down enough, or the bolt is to long.

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Rob
'86 TA 305 TPI
Gutted MAF
Ported Plenum
TB Bypass

 

Up and down should be .005, side to side should be zero.

If you have side play you'll need tp get it rebuilt. I believe there's a bushing inside that gets worn over time resulting in play.

Some of the aftermarket ones use a bearing instead for less timing flucuation.

Check the gear teeth for wear too. Crane recommends cutting a groove in the lower part of the distributor shaft housing to direct pressurized oil to the cam/distributor gears. Extends gear life.

SORRY ABOUT THAT GROOVE DIMENSION ERROR; IT SHOULD BE .030. That's what I get by going from my faulty memory instead of looking it up.

Jake



[This message has been edited by JakeJr (edited February 23, 2001).]

 

Jake,
I copied your post to put in the tech section of another site. I did credit you with the post. I hope you don't mind. If so then let me know & I'll take it down and rewrite it myself.
thanks
ODB

 

up and down movement = none
side to side movement = seems like a lot
all screws are tightened securely.
I was looking at the Accel replacement distributor from Jegs for 103 bucks and i want to use the msd ignition and coil with it. What do you guys think?

p.s. do you think that could've been causing my high 1/4 times?

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Pat Hirsz

88 305TBI
Mods:Hooker Aerochamber 3" exhaust, gutted kitty, March pullies, no smog, 180 thermo,
14x4 K&N, 3.42 gears,
Eibach springs with KYB's all around,
Harwood cowl hood, Z-28 wing, fresh paint(black)
120,000 miles, 5spd, T-tops
Run a best of 16.7 @85mph before gears

92 RS, 305TBI, auto, 3.08 gears, 180 thermo, glasspack (no muffler)

 

Yes.

Do yourself a favor in the long run by not going so cheap on the distributor.

It is an important part and can be swapped into just about any future small block.

 

Here's the link for the Crane info, unless you already found it. Scroll down the page a bit until you find the pro-racer's tip.

http://www.cranecams.com/master/drivgear.htm


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Thanks for that link Tom, that was very interesting. I'll do the same on my new distributor. And i think i'll go with the msd replacement distributor and msd ignition and wires (the full thing). Its gonna cost me a little over 500. Thanks for everybody's help.

 

Thanks for posting that link Tom. I went there and found that I'd made a mistake in the width and depth of the groove in my previous post.

Thanks for enabling me to find my error. I owe you one.

Jake



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1986 Corvette Coupe, 415 CID, Edelbrock 6073s, ZZ9