Help! My rear latch won't pull down.
Help! My rear latch won't pull down.
Today, i go outside and popped my trunk to get my backpack out. It opened fine.
Now when i tried to close it. Nothing. It latched, but it won't pull down. ZERO movement from the motor. Not even a sign of life. I don't think it's burned do to the fact that the motor was moving just fine (speed, power, etc.) right before it stopped.
I hit the little plastic latch so to see if it went down. Still nothing. So i proceeded to take out the housing. I unplugged and replugged all the wires, checked for any broken parts. Nothing. Everything was plugged in, nothing was broken. Nothing was blocking the motor. It looks just fine. I tried pushing the motor and latch down, it's as hard as a rock. Everything is tight, nothing is loose.
What can be wrong? How can i fix it? I haven't checked the fuse, could that be it?
BTW,
-It's a '91 RS
-A troubleshooting guide on these things would make a really good tech article.
Now when i tried to close it. Nothing. It latched, but it won't pull down. ZERO movement from the motor. Not even a sign of life. I don't think it's burned do to the fact that the motor was moving just fine (speed, power, etc.) right before it stopped.
I hit the little plastic latch so to see if it went down. Still nothing. So i proceeded to take out the housing. I unplugged and replugged all the wires, checked for any broken parts. Nothing. Everything was plugged in, nothing was broken. Nothing was blocking the motor. It looks just fine. I tried pushing the motor and latch down, it's as hard as a rock. Everything is tight, nothing is loose.
What can be wrong? How can i fix it? I haven't checked the fuse, could that be it?
BTW,
-It's a '91 RS
-A troubleshooting guide on these things would make a really good tech article.
The best place to start is to get out your trusty test light and check for power. If power is getting to motor, but it no worky, you have a motor problem. If it's not getting power, then you have an open circuit or maybe a fuse. I don't know the wiring set up on these things, so this is just a shot in the dark. Is there a micro switch on the motor or in the housing that might have gone bad?
I just made the transition from 2nd to 3rd generation f-bodies, so I've never worked on the pull down motors before. For all I know this is a common problem and there is a quick fix for it. By the way, I have lots of 2nd gen Trans Am parts for sale!
[This message has been edited by Da91Bird (edited February 23, 2001).]
I just made the transition from 2nd to 3rd generation f-bodies, so I've never worked on the pull down motors before. For all I know this is a common problem and there is a quick fix for it. By the way, I have lots of 2nd gen Trans Am parts for sale!

[This message has been edited by Da91Bird (edited February 23, 2001).]
I pulled out my voltmeter, and found that there is indeed power coming out of the wire going to the motor.
So it's either a motor problem or there is something which i can't see that is blocking the motor. I can't seem to find the electrical contacts going into the motor to see if the electricity has gotten that far.
I don't know of any micro-switches on the motor and housing, haven't heard of any either. Anyone know if chevrolet dealer mechanics are open tomorrow?
Hope my warranty covers this....
Anything else?
[This message has been edited by mostafa3k (edited February 23, 2001).]
So it's either a motor problem or there is something which i can't see that is blocking the motor. I can't seem to find the electrical contacts going into the motor to see if the electricity has gotten that far.
I don't know of any micro-switches on the motor and housing, haven't heard of any either. Anyone know if chevrolet dealer mechanics are open tomorrow?
Hope my warranty covers this....
Anything else?
[This message has been edited by mostafa3k (edited February 23, 2001).]
Senior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 515
Likes: 1
From: Webster,Texas,USA
Car: 1990 Formula
Engine: 5.7 liter
Transmission: 700R4
just open the hatch and stick your finger in the mechanism intill it goes all the way down then take your finger out of it and wait till it comes all the way back up then close the hatch. it will pull down with no problem. if it doesnt, then it just needs to be adjusted. there are 3 bolts behind the plastic wall there that can be loosened to adjust the motor from side to side and up and down. play with it alittle till its right. good luck
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Joined: Jul 2000
Posts: 7,386
Likes: 1
From: In a mint Third Gen!
Car: Red 87 IROC-Z28 T-Top
Engine: 5.7 Tuned Port Injection
Transmission: 700R4 Auto
Axle/Gears: BW 9-Bolt 3.27
Yes, it can also be a fuse, probably not though.
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Looking For:
87 IROC-Z 350 TPI
84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.
[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited February 25, 2001).]
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Looking For:
87 IROC-Z 350 TPI
84 TRANS AM 305 H.O.
[This message has been edited by IROCZTWENTYGR8 (edited February 25, 2001).]
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 1,405
Likes: 1
From: USA
Car: 1988 IROC-Z
Engine: 5.7L TPI
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: BW 2.77
There's a clear piece of plastic holding all of that crap in place. In time, it gets brittle and cracks to the point where it won't allow the pull down motor to work. Pull it apart and check. Mine did that a couple of years ago. Ended up that's what it was and it boggled me the same way. The plastic piece is like $20 at the dealer.
Supreme Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 5,183
Likes: 42
From: Oakdale, Ca
Car: 89 IrocZ
Engine: L98-ish
Transmission: 700R4
Mine does this every so often too...but doesn't latch...just sits there.
I take a screwdriver and insert it into the mechanism (no prying/bending), and the motor resets.
Might be doing the same thing and the above person does with his finger, not sure.
I take a screwdriver and insert it into the mechanism (no prying/bending), and the motor resets.
Might be doing the same thing and the above person does with his finger, not sure.
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Member
Joined: Jul 1999
Posts: 496
Likes: 0
From: Chicago, IL
Car: 89 IROC-Z
Engine: LB9
Transmission: 700-R4
If your dome light works, the "ACC" fuse is OK. If it's not replace it. Check the "LID" fuse (5A). If those are good, open the hatch with the key, and raise it up. push down with a screwdriver on the little black tab in under the latching mechanism above the motor itself. If you're standing at the back of your car looking down into the hatch, this tab is beneath all of the black "whiskers" on the right. It doesn't really look like it can be pushed down, but it can. If that doesn't work, about an inch to the left of the tab you'll see a downward curving scimitar-shaped extension. Push down on that too (what they were talking about above) as far as it will go, and you should hear that familiar latch sound once again. If the other electronics in your car are alright, this should work. If it doesn't, chances are your motor crapped out somehow. Good luck.
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"We lost Dale. This isn't fun anymore"
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"We lost Dale. This isn't fun anymore"
R.I.P. #3
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