Hey guys, what's up! First I'd like to thank everyone that's helped me with my questions so far on this 2.8- we got the heads on yesterday. We used the Permatex #2 on one side, then my friend's dad found his tube of Loctite PST, which we used on the other side. We were going to go further, but..

The mating surfaces around the intake manifold's coolant passageways look corroded. (Yeah, they're aluminum.) From what I've read & searched on here before, it seems "okay" to put blue RTV around the coolant passageways, on the intake manifold side of the gasket. Sort of like Val's picture at this message: https://www.thirdgen.org/messgboard/...ML/000932.html

I'm thinking we'd use the normal RTV black specified for the front/rear of the intake manifold, then put a circle of blue RTV around each coolant passageway, on the intake manifold side.

The questions are: Does this sound right? Should I use my Permatex hi-tack gasket sealer instead of regular RTV? Also, what about the "head side" of the intake manifold gasket? Those sealing surfaces are fine; do I not have to use RTV on that side of the gasket?

Thanks!


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Use it on both sides, there is the possibility that the gasket will not be held firmly across the head due to the missing material on the manifold side.
Any silicone is fine, as long as you are using the 'Ultra' stuff by permatex, or another AL safe silicone. I think permatex may have eliminated it from all their silicones, but I am not positive. A curing agent they used to (and maybe still do on some) use would react with and eat the aluminum. The 'Ultra' stuff wont do that I know for sure. Make sure the corroded areas are clean, or the silicone wont stick and you will still have a leak. A brass wire brush works wonders for this.

 

Thanks for the info! So let me get this straight one more time

I'll take the tube of Ultra Copper. Before I do anything with the gasket, I'll lay a circle around the coolant passages on the head, I guess a 1/4 inch bead, and have the bead be 1/8 inch away from the actual openings. Then, I'll lay the gasket in place. Then, I'll draw the same 1/4 inch bead around the passageway on the intake manifold gasket... again, 1/8 inch away from the hole. Then, we'll lower the intake manifold down onto the gaskets.

Should I also use the Ultra Copper for the front/back surfaces (I think they're called china walls?) of the manifold? Or should I switch back to the Black RTV that came with the intake manifold set? I guess I might as well stick with the Ultra Copper, eh?

Thanks again! Countdown to doing this is 1 hour.. can't wait to get this 2.8 back together


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Tom,

I like to Use permatex's Hi-Tack gasket Sealer on the head side ( the stuff that looks and feels like Snot ) spread thinly around every port and Connecting in between, AS it helps hold the gasket in place as you are lowering it down along with aiding in sealing.

I then Prefer to Put the Intake itself on Dry. Theoretically, You shouldnt need any Sealant at all, but When you start to get imprefections in the head/intake, that all goes out the window.

I would use a very conservative amount of sealent Around the water passages, To much and it will prevent the gasket from sealing properly in other places. I also Like to use a little around the intake ports. If You dont, You run the risk of the gasket not seating Due to the Sealent around the Coolant ports, and Oil leaking into the Intake ports.


USe Ultra Copper Quite liberally On the China Wall, You can always trim it off with a Razor once its dry from the outside. Really Slob it into the Corners where the Block meets the Head.


I use Ultra copper For everything, aside from the Hi-TAck. I cant stand that ultra blue stuff, it smells bad, Sticks to everything Except the Surface you want it to, and dosent Work very well In My experiance. The Ultra Copper Comes out In a nice bead, Is a little less tacky, allowing you to easily spread it with your Finger, and stays where you put it for the most part. It doesnt get stuck to your fingers, the tip of the sealant Tube, Dangling wires or Anything else within 3 feet like the blue stuff.


Hope that Helps. ive had my share of Leaky intakes, and this is The method That seems to Work best.

------------------
60 Ranchero - Project ( Money Hole )
85 Sport Coupe LG4 - Daily Driver

Just another Hot Rod kid, or thats what they all tell me.
Livin' the Stereotype

 

Thanks for the tips, Bort! Good point about putting too much sealer on. We'll be careful with that.. maybe I'll just drop an 1/8 inch bead instead of 1/4 inch.

------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Yea, 1/4" is way too much. I just put a thin layer on, about 1/4" wide maybe, and 1/16" thick I suppose. It doesnt take all that much, all the rest will just clog the opening up.

 

We laid down some thin lines of ultra copper on the heads, around the coolant passages, and across the china walls. Then we laid the intake gaskets down, lined 'em up, and pushed them against the head. We wiped up any ultra-copper that snuck out into the coolant passageways. Then we drew more circles around the passageway holes on the gaskets, and dropped the manifold on.

Looks good so far! Thanks again guys!

We'd have the thing together already except Pep Boys gave us the wrong damn timing chain. Looks like we'll be done with it Thursday.


------------------
-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!