Need help with wiper fluid
Thread Starter
Junior Member
Joined: Jun 2000
Posts: 27
Likes: 0
From: Belfast, Maine
Car: 1987 IROC-Z/28
Engine: 305 cid V8
Transmission: 700R4
Need help with wiper fluid
Hi. My wiper fluid does not work. I think it might have been because I removed the relay for the motor that pumps the fluid out, but I'm not sure. Anyway, what are the proper parts for a functioning wiper?
TIA,
Tristan
TIA,
Tristan
Cam,
There are several things you need. Fluid in the reservoir. Good hose from the reservoir to the pump, an unplugged inlet screen in the washer tank pickup tube, free-flowing (unplugged) spray nozzles at the windshield, and an operating pump.
If you have an '87, I'm fairly certain there is a pump located in the wiper motor. Later cars have a separate pump located at the washer fluid tank, but I'm not sure what year that design was introduced. This pump is controlled directly by the switch on the multifunction lever (turn signal arm). The circuit is fused along with the wipers, so if the wipers are working, there should be power available for the wash pump solenoid. The switch engages a ratchet in the wiper motor that strokes a pump as the wiper arms move.
If the pump isn't working, listen for a "click" when you push the wash switch. If the click isn't evident, check the wiring connectors at the wiper motor. If the wiring appears to be correct, the wiper motor may need service or replacement, or the switch has failed. If you can hear the click, it's likely that the pump valves are dried out and the pump has lost its prime. Disconnect and empty the washer fluid hose at the fluid reservoir. Remember that the solvent contains denatured alcohol and is poisonous, so don't drink it or allow your children or pets near it. Fill a squeeze bottle with warm clear water, and try to seal the hose against the opening of the squeeze bottle. Force the warm water through the hose as an assistant operates the wiper and washer. If you are successful in getting water from the spray arms at the windshield, reconnect the hose and see if the pump will operate with the washer fluid.
Hope that helps.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
There are several things you need. Fluid in the reservoir. Good hose from the reservoir to the pump, an unplugged inlet screen in the washer tank pickup tube, free-flowing (unplugged) spray nozzles at the windshield, and an operating pump.
If you have an '87, I'm fairly certain there is a pump located in the wiper motor. Later cars have a separate pump located at the washer fluid tank, but I'm not sure what year that design was introduced. This pump is controlled directly by the switch on the multifunction lever (turn signal arm). The circuit is fused along with the wipers, so if the wipers are working, there should be power available for the wash pump solenoid. The switch engages a ratchet in the wiper motor that strokes a pump as the wiper arms move.
If the pump isn't working, listen for a "click" when you push the wash switch. If the click isn't evident, check the wiring connectors at the wiper motor. If the wiring appears to be correct, the wiper motor may need service or replacement, or the switch has failed. If you can hear the click, it's likely that the pump valves are dried out and the pump has lost its prime. Disconnect and empty the washer fluid hose at the fluid reservoir. Remember that the solvent contains denatured alcohol and is poisonous, so don't drink it or allow your children or pets near it. Fill a squeeze bottle with warm clear water, and try to seal the hose against the opening of the squeeze bottle. Force the warm water through the hose as an assistant operates the wiper and washer. If you are successful in getting water from the spray arms at the windshield, reconnect the hose and see if the pump will operate with the washer fluid.
Hope that helps.
------------------
Later,
Vader
------------------
"No matter how hard you try you can't stop us now..."
Adobe Acrobat Reader 4.0
Supreme Member

Joined: Feb 2000
Posts: 1,416
Likes: 0
From: Johnstown, Ohio
Car: 84 Z28
Engine: 355 (fastburn heads, LT4 HOT cam)
Transmission: 700R4
Axle/Gears: 9-bolt, 3.27
My first guess would be that the washer pump is bad. Those things go bad fairly often, I've replaced 2 or 3 on my 2 cars.
If the pump is inside the wiper motor, you can still replace it seperately from the wiper motor. It simply pulls straight down and out of there. I think I got my new one from AutoZone for less than a $20 spot.
You may be able to use a stiff wire to probe the terminals up in the motor to see if you're getting voltage there, or you could use a couple jumper wires on the pump and connect it to the battery to see if it works that way. If it does, then I'd probe the wires going into the wiper motor to see if one of them gets voltage when the washer lever is activated. If you don't get voltage there, then it is probably in the switch. Actually, now that I think about it, I'd just probe the wires going to the motor, and if you get voltage, just replace the pump. If you want to take the guesswork out of which wire to probe, email me and I can look it up tomorrow at work.
------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305 with 200,000 original miles!
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350 (ZZ430)
using primarily GMPP parts.
Short block sitting on a stand.
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
ASE Certified Master Tech
If the pump is inside the wiper motor, you can still replace it seperately from the wiper motor. It simply pulls straight down and out of there. I think I got my new one from AutoZone for less than a $20 spot.
You may be able to use a stiff wire to probe the terminals up in the motor to see if you're getting voltage there, or you could use a couple jumper wires on the pump and connect it to the battery to see if it works that way. If it does, then I'd probe the wires going into the wiper motor to see if one of them gets voltage when the washer lever is activated. If you don't get voltage there, then it is probably in the switch. Actually, now that I think about it, I'd just probe the wires going to the motor, and if you get voltage, just replace the pump. If you want to take the guesswork out of which wire to probe, email me and I can look it up tomorrow at work.
------------------
Working on:
'84 Z28 LG4 305 with 200,000 original miles!
Added dual elec fans.
145 MPH IROC Speedo
Building 430 HP 350 (ZZ430)
using primarily GMPP parts.
Short block sitting on a stand.
Starting to look like the Kicker poster child!
ASE Certified Master Tech
Thread
Thread Starter
Forum
Replies
Last Post
HoosierinWA
Tech / General Engine
5
Oct 7, 2015 10:15 AM








