My car won't start and I need it badly.

Heres the symptoms. I turn the key and the car won't start. Won't turn over, won't click, the lights won't even go dim. Plus, when it DOES start the starter sounds funny and weak. I just replaced the altinator the day before yesterday.

The guy at the auto store said it might be one of the "relay wires" that connect to the starter, he said it is common for them to burn up when an altinator goes. I know it could be one of 3 things:

1. neutral safety switch
2. starter/ or wires.
3. The key mechanism

Now here's the funny part. I had the car towed home because it wouldn't start. When I got home I tried it and it started. I drove it into my garage. I repeatedly started it and shut it off to see what would happen. It started a few times and then after about the 3rd time it wouldn't start again. All happening with the car in park, so I think I can rule out a neutral safety switch.

I don't know if I'm making much sense but the point is I think I've narrowed it down to a starter or the wires. What do you guys think.

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1986 CAMARO Z28 ->
151,000 original miles, 43,000 on 89' vette 350 block, Holley 650 DP, Weiand intake, 1.6 rockers, 1 5/8" headers, no cat, 2 1/2" Flowmaster catback, Mallory coil, March pulleys, T5 with 3.35 1st gear and 0 miles, 90% Centerforce clutch, 3.73 posi, Eibach 1" drop springs, Spohn LCA's, Spohn adjustable panhard rod, Subframe connectors, polyurethane swaybar bushings/endlinks, 2 12" Sound Streams, 2 Infinity 6X9's, 2 Pioneer 6X9's, 800 watt Lanzar Vibe amp. ET 13.22@ 106.4MPH 3300lbs less driver and speakers Next mods-> B&M shifter, Extreme Energy 268 cam, Holley street dom intake.

1987 TRANS AM ->
73,000 miles, 305TPI, auto, all stock.

 

Starter. I would guess you have already tested to see if the connections are good. Take it out and have it tested, it probably has a weak motor and needs to be replaced.

 

could it be the wires? I would think it's the starter because I sounds like it is hitting a flat spot.

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1986 CAMARO Z28 ->
151,000 original miles, 43,000 on 89' vette 350 block, Holley 650 DP, Weiand intake, 1.6 rockers, 1 5/8" headers, no cat, 2 1/2" Flowmaster catback, Mallory coil, March pulleys, T5 with 3.35 1st gear and 0 miles, 90% Centerforce clutch, 3.73 posi, Eibach 1" drop springs, Spohn LCA's, Spohn adjustable panhard rod, Subframe connectors, polyurethane swaybar bushings/endlinks, 2 12" Sound Streams, 2 Infinity 6X9's, 2 Pioneer 6X9's, 800 watt Lanzar Vibe amp. ET 13.22@ 106.4MPH 3300lbs less driver and speakers Next mods-> B&M shifter, Extreme Energy 268 cam, Holley street dom intake.

1987 TRANS AM ->
73,000 miles, 305TPI, auto, all stock.

 

If you have a remote-start-switch ($10), you can jump the starter directly. First, remove the coil wire from your distributor cap (or if you have the coil-in-cap distributor, remove the cap, I guess.)

Hook the switch between the starter solenoid's B+ terminal and the positive terminal of the battery. Then, hit the switch. If the starter doesn't spin this way, it won't ever spin again. If it does spin, something else is wrong...

Hey- wait- is it the B+ terminal on the solenoid? Someone care to double-check me on this? Thanks!


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-Tom P (Hot rodded 1986 Firebird 2.8l) from http://www.f-body.net/mailbag/3rd/3rd_mailbag.html message boards
---Think your car could be pic of the week? Visit http://www.f-body.net for details!

 

Check for loose or dirty connections at the starter. If it's ok take a volt meter, ground the black lead and clamp the red lead to the "S" terminal on the solinoid not the wire. You should have 12.5 volts with key at start position. if it's low check voltage at the wire (this checks your connection) You can do the same steps with the heavy battery terminal. if it all check out good pull the starter.

 

Make sure battery terminals are tight and live. Sounds stupid and simple but a few years ago, my '87 TA all of a sudden would'nt start then would. Just a loose enough positive terminal connection. also, dude's right about checking starter connection. Good luck

nFORM91



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Proud newly acquired '91 Formula 305 TPI 700R4, 34K miles, Factory Black on Black all stock - no current HP mods (might keep that way!). Rims are '91 T/A black Diamond Spoke 16x8s. 20% tint & Black Widow Alarm system. Very near future plans: K&N filter, catback Flows, fresh paint job, new 255ZRs all around.

 

I agree with nFORM...you might want to load test your battery too. If it's going bad it might still read 12 volts until it's under load then drop to nothing.

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85T/A 305/QJ work in progress.

 

Problem is fixed. It was the starter. Now it's in the shop getting new manifold studs. Go figure.

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1986 CAMARO Z28 ->
151,000 original miles, 43,000 on 89' vette 350 block, Holley 650 DP, Weiand intake, 1.6 rockers, 1 5/8" headers, no cat, 2 1/2" Flowmaster catback, Mallory coil, March pulleys, T5 with 3.35 1st gear and 0 miles, 90% Centerforce clutch, 3.73 posi, Eibach 1" drop springs, Spohn LCA's, Spohn adjustable panhard rod, Subframe connectors, polyurethane swaybar bushings/endlinks, 2 12" Sound Streams, 2 Infinity 6X9's, 2 Pioneer 6X9's, 800 watt Lanzar Vibe amp. ET 13.22@ 106.4MPH 3300lbs less driver and speakers Next mods-> B&M shifter, Extreme Energy 268 cam, Holley street dom intake.

1987 TRANS AM ->
73,000 miles, 305TPI, auto, all stock.

 

I'd be slightly miffed if they charge you an arm and a leg for manifold studs/labor because the starter can be removed without taking down the exhaust. It's like a jigsaw puzzle, but it will come out.



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'88 Camaro RS 2.8L
'88 Formula 350 (Too many mods to list...)